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Re: RE>Still won't idle

To: Alan Bidgood <bidgood.alan@ssd.loral.com>
Subject: Re: RE>Still won't idle
From: James Murray <smurf3@softcom.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 23:14:21 -0700
Alan,
Yes that cover is important, but is also missing on most of the distributors 
I've
seen. I have inquired about the cover only to be told it doesn't make any
difference. Well, that cover is what separates the rotor and high voltage from
the low voltage pick-up inside the distributor. As I recall it was also #2
cylinder on mine that was shorting out, but not all the time, that is why it was
so mystifying.
Jim

Alan Bidgood wrote:

> James,
>
> Thanks very much for the information, definitely sounds like a
> good possibility.  I was liiking at various manuals/catalogues,
> none of which seem to show the opyical sensor like we have,
> but I also notice they show an 'anti flash cover' just below the
> rotor - I don't have one, do you think this is important?
>
>                Thanks again,
>
>                                               Alan B.'
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> From: James Murray
> To: Alan Bidgood
> Cc: mgs
> Subject: Re: Still won't idle
> Date: Tuesday, October 14, 1997 9:14PM
>
> Alan and all interested,
>
> I'm guessing you have a late model with electronic ignition. I had the
> same problem with my last smog inspection. I also replaced all plugs,
> wires, cap, and rotor at the recomendation of the mechanic. It had not
> been very long since the last change of these same parts. Finally got to
> pass smog, but still had the rough idle. I couldn't give up untill I
> found the problem. It turned out to be the bracket that supports the
> optical trigger inside the distributor. It sticks up high enough that
> each time the rotor came past it would arc to ground. So I wrapped the
> bracket with electrical tape. Presto, it ran like a champ. More
> permanent fix was to dip the bracket in liquid rubber. The same stuff
> you dip your tool handles in. Available at most hardware stores. You may
> have to dip it several times to build up a good insulation. Dont forget
> to mark where the bracket is, or it will foul up rotor timing in
> relation to the terminals in the cap. Good luck. Hope it works for you
> also.
>
> Jim
>
> Alan Bidgood wrote:
>
> > Hello again,
> >
> > I'm still trying to get my idle right, but I now feel
> > it is more than that.  Part of my concern is the damn
> > California Smog test I have to get through.
> >
> > The car almost seems like it is only firing on three,
> > although it seems to run fairly well at speed.  When it
> > is approaching idle the whole engine rocks quite badly.
> > Originally I thought it was the carb, but more recently
> > I pulled each plug lead off while the car was running,
> > and when I pulled number two off, nothing changed. I
> > thought I'd found the problem, but having changed the
> > lead, all the leads, the distributor cap, the plug, still
> > no change.  It seems as if the spark on that cylinder is
> > weaker (but I think that may be my imagination) In view of
> > replacing everything how could one cylinder/spark etc. be
> > different? The electronoic ignition/coil doesn't know one
> > cylinder from another as far as the magnitude of the spark
> > etc. The compression on cylinders 1,2 & 3 is similar with
> > number 4 a bit lower, so I don't think it is that.  Next I
> > will try playing with the timing, but I don't understand
> > what is going on?
> >
> > Any suggestions? before I take it somewhere,
> >
> >                     Thanks,
> >                                   Alan B.'




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