> Nina, I think a complete rebuild ought to cost about $700 to $800 for
> mechanic labor, including in and out of the car. In addition you will
> need about $1200 to $1600 in parts and machine shop. Total bill $1900 to
> $2400. If you pay any more than this the rest goes right into the
> mechanics pocket.
>
> Another option is to buy a used, but running, engine.
>
> Lets see what the list thinks; or heck ask Scott Gardner, he just went
> through this ,,,,,,,,, twice. (Sorry Scott)
>
> Larry Hoy (MGB.Roadster@juno.com)
Oh Larry, how kind, you've brought me something for my wound... Hey!
What's this? SALT?!?!?!? ARRGH!
My rebuild was $1900. $875 of it was labor, and the rest covered
parts and machine work. Here's a list of what was done:
Hot tank and magnaflux block and head
Line bore Block
New piston rings
Four new exhaust valves, and new hardened valve seats
New valve guides
Turned crank to .030 under
Honed cylinder bores
Honed block/head for flatness
Checked rods for straightness
New cam bearings, rod bearings, main bearings
New thermostat
New oil relief valve and uprated spring
High volume oil pump
All necessary gaskets, seals and locktabs
Three-piece clutch kit.
New oil, filter, and coolant
Paint block, oil pan, head, and exhaust manifold.
We were able to keep the crank, pistons, and rods. In addition, the
rocker shaft was well inside specs and didn't have to be replaced or
re-bushed. I had a new cam & lifter set, as well as a dual-row
timing set ready to install, so they aren't included above. I got a
six-month warranty on everything. (Good thing, too!)
I was kind of in a hurry to get the car back, or I probably could
have gotten some better prices on the parts. I think John ordered
everything from Vicky Brit.
The nice thing about full rebuilds is that you pretty much know what
parts you need...Everything! Just see if you can re-use the big
stuff (rods, pistons, crank, etc.), and order the rest from whoever
has the best prices and quality.
Scott
Scott Gardner
gardner@lwcomm.com
www.lwcomm.com/~gardner
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