Hi Blake,
Piston and cup are supplied as sets. That's why one tries to rebuild
one carb at at a time, so as to avoid putting piston A with cup B. But
now you have a problem you inherited....
How much "stick" is there? If just a little, you might be able to wear
the soft metal away by putting a tiny amount of abrasive on the piston
and moving it up and down and around in the cup. Check for dents before
you spend that effort, though.
If the spare set works OK, swap for those.
The point where the needle reduces from the large size to begin the
taper is the point where the needle should fit in the piston. Use a
straightedge to set this, clamp the screw and check again.
Turn the adjusting nut up to the top gently, then back off (down) six
flats of the nut. Turn the throttle screw in about two turns and adjust
the choke. This should get you running. Adjust from there.
Good luck--it's not nearly as difficult as one imagines. Be glad you're
not working with a Rochester.
Bob
On Tue, 21 Oct 1997 22:15:41 -0500 (CDT) Blake Wylie <bwylie@hiwaay.net>
writes:
>The piston on the rear carb doesn't want to go down all of the way.
>:\
>What can I do about that? I could replace the body and cup from the
>old set
>that I have...would that help?
>
>Also, what are the best settings for these things? About where should
>I set
>the needle and the throttle screws?
>
>BTW...these were never tuned right in the first place. I don't have
>any
>vacuum leaks (I've sprayed already) though.
>
>Blake
>
>
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