Not sure if it works on clutches or not - but it should. The old vacuum
cleaner trick. Shop Vac, CLear tubing, Film canister. Cut hole in film
canister, insert tubing, put ove hose of shop vac, put tubing on bleed
nipple, open nipple, turn on vac, keep MC full till clear fluid comes out
tubing. Works like a charm on brakes. Didn't get to try on clutch
recently as I do not own a shop vac. My buddy, MG mechanic for 30+ yrs,
from England helped me bleed clutch (I am trying to get him on this list
- he just got his first computer- a Mac). His procedure: Open bleed
valve, push clutch, put finger on bleed valve, release clutch, repeat
till pressure in system. worked better than all the pumping I had done to
that point. Of course it takes 2 people and the one under the car gets
an armpit full of hydralic fluid (where was that wife with the jar??).
Larry
>>>>On 11/4/99 0:34 so and so (Rocky Frisco) said. (And I quote:)
>James H. Nazarian wrote:
>>
>> Hi List,
>>
>> I received a general message today that relayed an idea for bleeding the
>> clutch slave cylinder. It seems the recipient was advised to run a tube
>> between the clutch slave cylinder nipple and the Master Cylinder lid,
>> and pump the hell out of the clutch. The idea sounds clever until you
>> realize that besides removing air, you will very likely pump a piece of
>> dirt into your MC that could result in you losing your brakes or clutch
>> at a most inopportune moment. I can assure everyone, it does not take
>> much of a speck of rust to block the replenishment orifice in the MC of
>> an MGA 1500/1600.
>>
>> NEVER REUSE BRAKE FLUID. Even if it is for the clutch. There are some
>> very small orifices in the hydraulic cylinders that can be obstructed by
>> some surprisingly tiny bits of dirt or rust. One of the listers told you
>> the correct procedure and proper sequence of tighten nipple, press
>> clutch, loosen nipple, tighten nipple, release clutch, etc. Follow his
>> instructions, and DON'T PUMP ANY FLUID BACK INTO THE MASTER CYLINDER:
>> DON'T!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>>
>> For safety reasons I feel obliged to alert the list. It is not done to
>> embarrass anyone. We are all here to learn from each other's
>> experiences, and to share our own knowledge. So it is with the best
>> intentions that I say, DO NOT PUMP FLUID BACK INTO YOUR MC. PLEASE!!!
>
>Let's name names. I, Rocky Frisco, said that's how I bleed my brakes and
>clutch, and have been doing it that way without problems. First I drain
>the lines entirely and then refill with new fluid. Where's this piece of
>dirt going to come from? If it's already in the brake lines, after
>draining completely and refilling (deosn't everybody do this?) I will
>see it coming through the clear plastic line. That's why I specified
>clear plastic line and watching what's coming through it, bubbles, etc.
>
>This procedure is standard operation to bleed and prepare American
>vehicle master cylinders and I've found it also works well when an
>English or German MC will sometimes not set up on its own. My method
>just adds the rest of the system. I've rebuilt lots of master cylinders,
>admittedly not every model used on LBC's, but many of them. I've not
>noted any tiny orifices that might cause the brakes or clutch to fail if
>blocked by a speck of dirt.
>
>I have *never* yet seen a British car get fully bled by using the pump,
>loosen, tighten, pump, loosen, tighten, pump, fill etc. etc. method
>loved so well by American mechanics. It always leaves some air in the
>system. The difference between this and a really air-free system is
>unmistakable. Besides the recirculating bleed, I also put pressure on
>the brake pedal overnight after renewing the fluid. Not completely sure
>why, but this hardens the pedal even more.
>
>My alternative bleeding method is tube-in-bottle, open bleeder, pump
>slowly until no more air is visible (somebody else keeping the MC full).
>This gets better results than the pump-up method, but still not as good
>as the recirculating method.
>
>I understand it's common for people to leave the brakes and clutch
>hydraulics alone until something breaks. Most owners won't pay any
>attention to the brakes until the pedal sinks toward the floor or they
>find a bad leak and fluid all over the driveway or they hear
>metal-to-metal when they stop. I renew the whole system, metal lines,
>flex lines, cylinders and all, at least once every five years and I
>drain and refill with fresh fluid when I do the prep for the season
>change in the fall and spring.
>
>Tapping on the cylinders and lines will almost always dislodge more air.
>
>Perhaps I erred in taking for granted nobody would pump old, dark,
>crappy fluid through a system. I don't recommend that inexperienced
>people service their brakes or steering anyway, too dangerous. This is
>something that should be left to or learned from a good mechanic.
>
>-Rock
>--
>Rocky, JJ Cale Band & Pratchett Books: http://www.rocky-frisco.com
>Rocky's Mini Cooper Page: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/6437/
>Mini Books: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/6437/rockboox.html
Larry Macy
78 Midget
Keep your top down and your chin up.
Larry B. Macy, Ph.D.
macy@bblmail.psycha.upenn.edu
System Manager/Administrator
Neuropsychiatry Section
Department of Psychiatry
University of Pennsylvania
3400 Spruce St. - 10 Gates
Philadelphia, PA 19104
Ask a question and you're a fool for three minutes; do not ask a
question and you're a fool for the rest of your life.
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