I found that the distributor clamp bolt was very hard to get to with a
wrench and once the wrench was on it you could turn it very little. I made
it a little easier by changing the bolt to a socket head bolt so I can use
an Allen Wrench on it. If you use an Allen Wrench that has a ball end it
makes it that much easier still.
From: Neil_Oldfield@nag.national.com.au <Neil_Oldfield@nag.national.com.au>
To: Dodd, Kelvin <firstname.lastname@example.org>; email@example.com
Cc: Paul Hunt <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Date: Tuesday, December 21, 1999 4:31 PM
Subject: RE: lucased again.....
> Thanks for the great info Guys, I usually dont touch the timimg,
>that for the mechanics. But will remember for later use. Though have got
>the Lucas Dissy for now, buy who knows when another car may come along...
>Not so much Lucassed as Ownered. It's true it is a weak point, but the
>factory instructions say that the clamp-bolt should not be used to set the
>timing and it frequently is. The holes in the clamp-plate for the bolts to
>the block are large enough to give quite a large range of adjustment and it
>is these that should be slackened to fine-tune the timing, not the
>clamp-bolt. The first time a distributor is put in the engine the
>clamp-plate should be lightly tightened in the mid-point of its travel and
>the timing set with a loose clamp-bolt, which should then be lightly
>tightened. The distributor and clamp-plate
>should then be removed together and a check made that the clamp-plate is
>fully seated on the distributor shoulder before tightening the clamp-bolt -
>without overtightening. The assembly should then be replaced and the final
>timing adjustment done with slack clamp-plate to block bolts. Thereafter
>all timing adjustments, including after removal of the
>distributor/clamp-plate assembly, including if the engine has been rotated,
>and including replacement of points with the same type (as long as dwell is
>set before timing) should be capable of being made within the movement of
>the clamp-plate to block.