I guess my daily driver, recently rebuilt 77B w/new HS4's and Pertronix
qualify for standard starting procedure. Standard routine in the morning is to
put the transmission in neutral, clutch out, pull choke all the way out, turn
key to ON, make certain that the Ignition lamp is shining, and turn the key to
I expect that the engine will fire up within about two or three seconds (maybe
five or six at <0C) and immediately push the choke back in for an idle speed of
about 1500 rpm. One mile later the temperature gauge is off the peg and I'm
shifting into top gear on the highway and pushing the choke all the way in. Ten
hours later, at the end of the work day, I'll repeat the procedure but with the
choke pulled out about half way. Other starts during the day will probably
require nothing more than turn the key and hear it go VROOOM.
May it continue that way.
> I a looking exactly for the same info.
> The old habit may work also for older cars with a hand operated choke,
> provided these are equipped with an "accellaration pump" like Solex had. I
> had these on my Simca's and have seen these on the German Fords.
> SU carbs don't work that way, so this has no use.
> With a cold engine I pull full choke and do not push the accelarator.
> I have to crank for an elongated period (20 seconds...) and then the engine
> starts fine.
> When the engine still is cold, but has been started shortly before, only a
> brief crank is needed to fire the engine still using the choke.
> When warm no choke is used and the engine starts fine with a brief crank.
> Why does the cold start needs an initial long cranking period???
> The engine has been fully adjusted recently by a knowledgable MG specialized
> This did not change anything to this cranking. It made the engine run more
> smooth, give more power and lowered the fuel consumption.
> Does this look familiar?
> My engine is of the latest 18GK (US spec) series and the airpump has been
> This is the original engine according to the BMHIT certificate.
> February '71 BGT
> I'll be at Framingham MA next monday evening. anyone nearby????
> -----Original Message-----
> From: DenverD [mailto:DenverD@Texan.dk]
> Sent: Friday, June 15, 2001 9:24 AM
> To: mgs
> Subject: "correct" starting procedure
> okay, i've waited patiently for books to arrive (via some slow
> boat) and now i'm out of patience, so:
> what is the "correct" starting procedure for a circ 1971 high
> compression 1800 engine with dual SUs and manual choke..
> i mean an "old" habit is once to the floor with the throttle and
> then release, before turning the key--but, that was to set the
> automatic choke--since there are none, need i continue that?
> i mean, at about 70 degrees F. and an engine 24 or more hours
> "cold" would you say:
> half choke and don't touch the throttle until ready to move, OR
> full choke and "goose" the throttle as soon at it fires, OR
> no choke and "some" throttle, OR . . .
> i guess i could experiment, but so far everything i've tried has
> been unsuccessful--and, after too long trying i resort to a shot of
> "diesel starting fluid" into each SU inlet...then, purr..
> DenverD - A Texan in Denmark
> 65B # GHN3L/33680; engine 18V581-H193
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