My impression is, that the amount of cable travel made by the control and
cable do not match with the expected travel of the valve pivot.
2nd - this nasty valve has been discussed before - seems to be a poor
quality issue - even rather new ones do not seem to close fully. Not to bad
for a B, but GT drivers really will sweat heavily in summertime.
The suggestion to add an extra valve in series with the normal one which can
be closed fully in winter time is the best suggestion I've seen sofar.
Cheers,
Hans
Hot interior in summertime '71 BGT - autumn now here already
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Mills [mailto:williem@mindspring.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2001 3:58 AM
To: Scott Hower; mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Functioning heater controls?
Scott,
Check out this site
http://hometown.aol.com/bobmunch/HTRVlsHT.htm
look at his valve fix for the heater valve.
Bill
'74 'BGT
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Hower" <HowerSL@worldnet.att.net>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 8:16 PM
Subject: Functioning heater controls?
> Ok, is it just me, or does anyone else not have a functioning heater
control
> on their MGB? I've got a 73 MGB and no matter what I seem to do, I
> cant get the blasted heater dial to actually work.
>
> The control itself is fine, devoid of petrified grease and assorted rodent
> droppings. It turns freely and clicks into the stops on either end with
> ease.
> The cable and heater valve are both new. The cable slides smoothly inside
> the sheath. The valve action is smooth, and stays closed once snapped
shut.
> I've got the cable sheath firmly clamped at both ends and the slack
removed.
>
> I've tried adjusting with the valve and dial fully open and fully closed,
> but I
> dont get full range of travel with either. The best setting seems to be
> with
> the valve/ dial position fully open; but with the dial in the "off"
> position, the
> valve doesn't close... it is sort of there, but not snapped shut.
///
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