Thanks Bud,
I will check it out.
Don
Bud Krueger wrote:
> Don,
>
> A year or so ago I started a similar thread about adhesives, here's
> a copy of the text from my last response:
>
>> Thanks to all of you who the responded to my question about adhesives
>> vs. welding.
>> It appears that there are at least two substantial products intended
>> for this
>> purpose, 3M5200 and a line known as Fusor (www.fusor.com). The
>> combined knowledge
>> of this list still amazes me.
>>
> I'd suggest checking these out.
> Bud Krueger
> 52TD
>
> Don Malling wrote:
>
>> Hi Blair,
>>
>> Did you do the entire sill thing -- inner, middle and outer sills --
>> or just the outers?
>>
>> If everything, I have a question, maybe a question for anyone who has
>> done it.
>>
>> When I remove the old sills, I plan to support the body under the seat
>> and floor area with wood and jack stands to distribute the load. Then
>> weld in the new sills after getting everything lined up with the doors.
>> The question is: when I lower the car back onto its wheels, is there
>> any sag in the sills due to the load of the car. That is, when I line
>> up the sills the doors and everything is jacked up and supported, can
>> I assume it will be exactly the same when I remove the support or do
>> I have to build in some "sag", and if so about how much?
>>
>> I guess I heard many new car fenders are glued on rather than welded.
>> Seems like lots of joints a unibody could be considered structural --
>> like the sills. I assume there must be places where you can't use this
>> stuff in place of welding. Any other keywords or names for SEM so I
>> can find more info on it.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Don Malling
>>
>>
>>
>> Blair J. Weiss wrote:
>>
>>> David Wrote :
>>>
>>>
>>>> Blair J. Weiss SEZ -
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Bondo goes over bare metal, seam sealer goes over primer.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> The fellow doing the body work on my MGA tells me emphatically
>>>> that you always apply body filler (don't know if it's Bondo
>>>> brand he's using) over primer, then apply more primer over the
>>>> filler. This is to prevent moisture from getting between the
>>>> filler and the metal (since the filler is hygroscopic), causing
>>>> rust and separation of the filler from the metal. This
>>>> condition usually shows itself as little "pimples" under the
>>>> paint which, if impacted, will cause a chunk of the filler
>>>> underneath to break free from the body and leave a big hole in
>>>> the paint.
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Probably should be looking for a new body guy by now? The "Evercoat
>>> Everglass waterproof short
>>> strand fiberglass reinforced filler" aka Tiger Hair goes onto bare
>>> metal. If
>>> you were to put it over primer, you would be depending upon the adhesive
>>> strength on the primer to the metal to keep the filler on the car.
>>>
>>> On top of the tiger hair, the next coat of "Bondo" should be a fine
>>> light
>>> weight variety.
>>>
>>> Seam sealer doesn't go on exterior panels, it is a rubbery compound for
>>> covering over joints, like welds, or better panel adhesive. For what
>>> it's
>>> worth, I just finished a B and ended up using SEM adhesive to "glue"
>>> the
>>> floor pans in. I was a little skeptical about it, so I welded the
>>> rockers...
>>>
>>> The stuff is amazing. Hit the metal with a 36 grit grinder, and lay a
>>> 1/4"
>>> bead around the lip where the floor sits. Take a "bondo" spreader and
>>> smooth
>>> it down, lay your panels into place, and sink about 12 tek screws
>>> into each
>>> floor... total time about 5 hours... oh and you still need to put seam
>>> sealer over the panel adhesive.
>>>
>>> Blair
>>
>>
>>
>> /
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