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Paul (and others), -- Alcohol has about 40% lower energy content than
gasoline, so the fuel economy will be lower by about 1-MPG. Needing
to burn 4% more fuel, you may need to re-adjust the fuel mixture
slightly, about one flat down on the adjusting nut. Most people will
never notice the difference, and you can easily switch back and forth
between E10 and zero-alcohol fuel on the fly with no problem.
But there is one problem that does pop up to bite you sometimes,
especially in hot weather. Gasoline boils at 190dF. Alcohol boils
af 160dF. This is a mixture of liquids, not a chemical compound. If
you warm it up to 160dF the alcohol will boil, and you can separate
the alcohol out of the mixture by distillation while the gasoline
content is not boiling.
The problem is that fuel containing any amount of alcohol will boil
at 160dF rather than 190dF. This can be a big problem in warm
weather with stop and go slow driving or standing still idling, or
when you switch off for five minutes and then try to re-start. When
the alcohol boils it will result in bubbles in the fuel as it wants
to flow through the main fuel jet past the metering needle. Not much
energy in the bubbles compared to liquid fuel, so the mixture goes
extremely lean causing bad running or no-start. The immediate fix is
to pull the choke out to give it more fuel flow, which can get the
engine started or can get you through the bad running condition until
you get moving and cool the carburetors down again.
A longer term fix for this problem is to install a Bilge Blower fan
in the MGA air intake duct to blow air to keep the carburetors cool
enough to prevent boiling the alcohol. There are several successive
pages on this information, Start additional reading here:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/carbs/cb207.htm
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/carbs/cb208b.htm
Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com
At 03:50 AM 4/19/2021, PaulHunt73 wrote:
>I'm looking for people with experience of using this in cars like
>the MGA and MGB in terms of what if any carb needle and timing
>changes have been found necessary, and any other problems.
>
>Thanks,
>PaulH.
>....
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<font size=3>Paul (and others), -- Alcohol has about 40% lower energy
content than gasoline, so the fuel economy will be lower by about
1-MPG. Needing to burn 4% more fuel, you may need to re-adjust the
fuel mixture slightly, about one flat down on the adjusting nut.
Most people will never notice the difference, and you can easily switch
back and forth between E10 and zero-alcohol fuel on the fly with no
problem.<br><br>
But there is one problem that does pop up to bite you sometimes,
especially in hot weather. Gasoline boils at 190dF.
Alcohol boils af 160dF. This is a mixture of liquids, not a
chemical compound. If you warm it up to 160dF the alcohol will
boil, and you can separate the alcohol out of the mixture by distillation
while the gasoline content is not boiling.<br><br>
The problem is that fuel containing any amount of alcohol will boil at
160dF rather than 190dF. This can be a big problem in warm weather
with stop and go slow driving or standing still idling, or when you
switch off for five minutes and then try to re-start. When the
alcohol boils it will result in bubbles in the fuel as it wants to flow
through the main fuel jet past the metering needle. Not much energy
in the bubbles compared to liquid fuel, so the mixture goes extremely
lean causing bad running or no-start. The immediate fix is to pull
the choke out to give it more fuel flow, which can get the engine
started or can get you through the bad running condition until you get
moving and cool the carburetors down again.<br><br>
A longer term fix for this problem is to install a Bilge Blower fan in
the MGA air intake duct to blow air to keep the carburetors cool enough
to prevent boiling the alcohol. There are several successive pages
on this information, Start additional reading here:
<a href="http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/carbs/cb207.htm"; eudora="autourl">
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/carbs/cb207.htm</a><br>
<a href="http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/carbs/cb208b.htm"; eudora="autourl">
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/carbs/cb208b.htm<br><br>
</a>Barney Gaylord<br>
1958 MGA with an attitude<br>
<a href="http://mgaguru.com/"; eudora="autourl">http://MGAguru.com</a>
<br><br>
<br>
At 03:50 AM 4/19/2021, PaulHunt73 wrote:<br>
</font><blockquote type=cite class=cite cite=""><font size=2>I'm looking
for people with experience of using this in cars like the MGA and MGB in
terms of what if any carb needle and timing changes have been found
necessary, and any other problems.<br>
</font><font size=3> <br>
</font><font size=2>Thanks,<br>
PaulH.<br>
</font><font size=3>....</font></blockquote></body>
</html>
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