--===============0525840341093222004==
boundary="=_3d08cfaf-2a19-478e-b3a9-e0f7882cf9aa"
--=_3d08cfaf-2a19-478e-b3a9-e0f7882cf9aa
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Hello everyone,
The car I'm working on is a 1974 MGB roadster. I decided that I wanted to
replace everything relating to the brakes and their hydraulics except for the
metal lines. I ordered the parts from Moss but had to sit on them for a couple
of years before actually starting the project.
So, I got the new master cylinder installed, which is probably one of the more
challenging things I've ever done on the car. Next step was working on the rear
brakes. The rubber hose in the back was pretty simple, but the issue is with
the wheel cylinders. I replaced them maybe twenty years ago and didn't have any
trouble. But these new ones have a roller pin on them that doesn't line up with
the holes on the brake's backing plate. It's been too long to try and swap them
with Moss, and I'm not sure that would do any good anyway because I don't
recall that there were too many choices for that part. You could get a cheaper
aftermarket or a more expensive part that may be made in England. I went with
the cheaper one.
Has this been an issue for anyone else? I could probably drill another hole in
the back plate to match the roll pin, but that seems like one of those DPO
solutions. Also, I don't feel like I should have to entertain such a notion
anyway. The part should fit and function correctly. The current wheel cylinders
are probably ok to re-use, but I liked the idea of all new parts. The front
brakes are also on the agenda, but we're not there yet.
The next question has to do with bleeding the rear brakes. I started to bleed
the brake furthest from the MC using a vacuum tool I got at a well-known less
expensive (think shipping at a port) tool store. It's been a letdown for
several reasons, among them that the bleeders on the wheel cylinders seem too
small for the bleeder fittings that came with the tool, which causes the tool
to draw a great deal of air through its system. I seemed to barely be able to
get any fluid through the system. The trouble I have is that I am single and
live alone, so I don't have any readily available sources of help. If the
brakes are going to be bled, I have to do them by myself. Does anyone have any
advice on this topic?
Thank you,
-William
1974 MGB
--=_3d08cfaf-2a19-478e-b3a9-e0f7882cf9aa
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<html><body><div style=3D"font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-s=
ize: 12pt; color: #000000"><div>Hello everyone,</div><div><br data-mce-bogu=
s=3D"1"></div><div>The car I'm working on is a 1974 MGB roadster. I decided=
that I wanted to replace everything relating to the brakes and their hydra=
ulics except for the metal lines. I ordered the parts from Moss but had to =
sit on them for a couple of years before actually starting the project.</di=
v><div><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div>So, I got the new master cylinde=
r installed, which is probably one of the more challenging things I've ever=
done on the car. Next step was working on the rear brakes. The rubber hose=
in the back was pretty simple, but the issue is with the wheel cylinders. =
I replaced them maybe twenty years ago and didn't have any trouble. But the=
se new ones have a roller pin on them that doesn't line up with the holes o=
n the brake's backing plate. It's been too long to try and swap them with M=
oss, and I'm not sure that would do any good anyway because I don't recall =
that there were too many choices for that part. You could get a cheaper aft=
ermarket or a more expensive part that may be made in England. I went with =
the cheaper one.</div><div><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div>Has this bee=
n an issue for anyone else? I could probably drill another hole in the back=
plate to match the roll pin, but that seems like one of those DPO solution=
s. Also, I don't feel like I should have to entertain such a notion anyway.=
The part should fit and function correctly. The current wheel cylinders ar=
e probably ok to re-use, but I liked the idea of all new parts. The front b=
rakes are also on the agenda, but we're not there yet.</div><div><br data-m=
ce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div>The next question has to do with bleeding the rea=
r brakes. I started to bleed the brake furthest from the MC using a vacuum =
tool I got at a well-known less expensive (think shipping at a port) tool s=
tore. It's been a letdown for several reasons, among them that the bleeders=
on the wheel cylinders seem too small for the bleeder fittings that came w=
ith the tool, which causes the tool to draw a great deal of air through its=
system. I seemed to barely be able to get any fluid through the system. Th=
e trouble I have is that I am single and live alone, so I don't have any re=
adily available sources of help. If the brakes are going to be bled, I have=
to do them by myself. Does anyone have any advice on this topic?</div><div=
><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div>Thank you,</div><div>-William</div><di=
v>1974 MGB</div></div></body></html>
--=_3d08cfaf-2a19-478e-b3a9-e0f7882cf9aa--
--===============0525840341093222004==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline
_______________________________________________
Mgs@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net
--===============0525840341093222004==--
|