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The GT originally had the same wheel cylinders as the roadster, changing
in May 68 for the larger item which can take more braking effort without
locking up in the wet. Incidentally the factory V8 used the smaller
ones, presumably because with the harder springs there was more chance
of locking up over bumps. You are unlikely to notice the difference on
dry tarmac. Rather than describe them the two types can be seen here
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/brakecyl.htm#3
The purpose of Speedbleeders is to allow single-handed pedal bleeding of
hydraulic systems, but they are pretty expensive for what they are and
the number of times they are used.  They contain a spring-loaded valve
which is normally bolted down tight, but when bleeding you slacken them
off so that only the spring is keeping the valve closed. Then when you
press on the pedal fluid pressure opens the valve to let air/fluid out,
and when releasing the pedal they close again to stop air going back
in. I've always used EeziBleed.
Regardless of which method you use to get air out I've always found that
after low pressure bleeding they are spongy and it needs to be done with
high pressure that does need two people. One presses down on the pedal
as hard as they can while the other rapidly opens and closes each
caliper nipple in turn, which always blasts a bit more air out, after
that they are fine. The front of the car needs to be a bit higher than
the rear as well.
PaulH.
On 23/10/2021 18:44, wkilleffer@epbfi.com wrote:
> As far as the type of wheel cylinders, I don't recall that there was a
> choice as to whether they were for a GT or a roadster. The only choice
> was either Lockheed brand (maybe) for more $, or an aftermarket for
> less $. As far as I know, the back plates are original, but I've only
> owned the car for 20 years. Its engine is not original, so who knows
> what else could have been swapped.
> Can you shed more light on the whole speed bleeder thing? And how do
> do pedal pumping bleeding when you're by yourself?
> The fluid is making its way back to the wheel cylinder, so no lines
> are crimped. But thanks to the poor fitment of the bleeder thing with
> the tool, I can't tell if the air bubbles are coming through the brake
> lines or are air being drawn into the bleeder because the fitment
> isn't good.
> Yes, I did the clutch system a couple or three years ago. It was a bit
> frustrating, but seems ok now.
>
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<p>The GT originally had the same wheel cylinders as the roadster,
changing in May 68 for the larger item which can take more braking
effort without locking up in the wet. Incidentally the factory V8
used the smaller ones, presumably because with the harder springs
there was more chance of locking up over bumps. You are unlikely
to notice the difference on dry tarmac. Rather than describe them
the two types can be seen here
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/brakecyl.htm#3";>http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/brakecyl.htm#3</a></p>
<p>The purpose of Speedbleeders is to allow single-handed pedal
bleeding of hydraulic systems, but they are pretty expensive for
what they are and the number of times they are used.  They
contain a spring-loaded valve which is normally bolted down tight,
but when bleeding you slacken them off so that only the spring is
keeping the valve closed. Then when you press on the pedal fluid
pressure opens the valve to let air/fluid out, and when releasing
the pedal they close again to stop air going back in. I've always
used EeziBleed.</p>
<p>Regardless of which method you use to get air out I've always
found that after low pressure bleeding they are spongy and it
needs to be done with high pressure that does need two people.Â
One presses down on the pedal as hard as they can while the other
rapidly opens and closes each caliper nipple in turn, which always
blasts a bit more air out, after that they are fine. The front of
the car needs to be a bit higher than the rear as well.<br>
</p>
<p>PaulH.<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 23/10/2021 18:44,
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:wkilleffer@epbfi.com";>wkilleffer@epbfi.com</a> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:1031194420.116434484.1635011091394.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size:
12pt; color: #000000">As far as the type of wheel cylinders, I
don't recall that there was a choice as to whether they were for
a GT or a roadster. The only choice was either Lockheed brand
(maybe) for more $, or an aftermarket for less $. As far as I
know, the back plates are original, but I've only owned the car
for 20 years. Its engine is not original, so who knows what else
could have been swapped.Â
<div>Can you shed more light on the whole speed bleeder thing?
And how do do pedal pumping bleeding when you're by yourself?</div>
<div>The fluid is making its way back to the wheel cylinder, so
no lines are crimped. But thanks to the poor fitment of the
bleeder thing with the tool, I can't tell if the air bubbles
are coming through the brake lines or are air being drawn into
the bleeder because the fitment isn't good. </div>
<div>Yes, I did the clutch system a couple or three years ago.
It was a bit frustrating, but seems ok now.</div>
</div>
<br>
</blockquote>
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