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Thank you for your reply.=20
As far as the type of wheel cylinders, I don't recall that there was a choi=
ce as to whether they were for a GT or a roadster. The only choice was eith=
er Lockheed brand (maybe) for more $, or an aftermarket for less $. As far =
as I know, the back plates are original, but I've only owned the car for 20=
years. Its engine is not original, so who knows what else could have been =
swapped.=20
Can you shed more light on the whole speed bleeder thing? And how do do ped=
al pumping bleeding when you're by yourself?=20
The fluid is making its way back to the wheel cylinder, so no lines are cri=
mped. But thanks to the poor fitment of the bleeder thing with the tool, I =
can't tell if the air bubbles are coming through the brake lines or are air=
being drawn into the bleeder because the fitment isn't good.=20
Yes, I did the clutch system a couple or three years ago. It was a bit frus=
trating, but seems ok now.=20
Thank you,=20
-William=20
From: "Robert's New iPad" <mgbobh@gmail.com>=20
To: wkilleffer@epbfi.com=20
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net=20
Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2021 1:36:03 PM=20
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB rear brake questions=20
The rear-brake question opens more questions. MGBs had rear cylinders to fi=
t the Tourers and the GTs, different sizes of cylinders and different back =
plates. The roll pins located the cylinders in the correct backing plates.=
=20
Thus the questions arise: Tourer back plates and new GT cylinders? GT backp=
lates and new Tourer cylinders? Car modified before you got it? Wrong cylin=
ders ordered/shipped?=20
Having wrestled through this with my GT, it was years back and now I do not=
recall which cylinders (size and pin location) are Tourer or GT. Someone w=
ill know, though, and that challenge easily mastered. GT cylinders are larg=
er, suited to the additional weight of GTs. If you have to swap parts, do i=
t the way MG built it=E2=80=94they got it right.=20
As you replaced them years ago, my bet is that the vendor shipped wrong cyl=
inders.=20
As to the bleeding, my experience has been that ordinary pedal pushing has =
done fine for me on many cars, though I did install speed bleeders on this =
GT. They are an easy exchange and work OK, but the savings of 1/4 cup of br=
ake fluid doing the job are hardly worthwhile. If the rear brakes are diffi=
cult to bleed, have a close look at the metal pipes on the axle. A car that=
has been flat-bed carried may have had the straps wrapped around the axle,=
crushing the tubes. That=E2=80=99s not an unusual thing to find.=20
Since you are changing hoses, have you changed clutch hose? These break dow=
n internally whilst appearing fine externally. As you do the change, do it =
swiftly, w/o interruption, as introducing a bubble into the line is altoget=
her too easy, and bleeding the clutch line has made many an owner irate.=20
Bob=20
On Oct 23, 2021, at 1:04 PM, [ mailto:wkilleffer@epbfi.com | wkilleffer@epb=
fi.com ] wrote:=20
Hello everyone,=20
The car I'm working on is a 1974 MGB roadster. I decided that I wanted to r=
eplace everything relating to the brakes and their hydraulics except for th=
e metal lines. I ordered the parts from Moss but had to sit on them for a c=
ouple of years before actually starting the project.=20
So, I got the new master cylinder installed, which is probably one of the m=
ore challenging things I've ever done on the car. Next step was working on =
the rear brakes. The rubber hose in the back was pretty simple, but the iss=
ue is with the wheel cylinders. I replaced them maybe twenty years ago and =
didn't have any trouble. But these new ones have a roller pin on them that =
doesn't line up with the holes on the brake's backing plate. It's been too =
long to try and swap them with Moss, and I'm not sure that would do any goo=
d anyway because I don't recall that there were too many choices for that p=
art. You could get a cheaper aftermarket or a more expensive part that may =
be made in England. I went with the cheaper one.=20
Has this been an issue for anyone else? I could probably drill another hole=
in the back plate to match the roll pin, but that seems like one of those =
DPO solutions. Also, I don't feel like I should have to entertain such a no=
tion anyway. The part should fit and function correctly. The current wheel =
cylinders are probably ok to re-use, but I liked the idea of all new parts.=
The front brakes are also on the agenda, but we're not there yet.=20
The next question has to do with bleeding the rear brakes. I started to ble=
ed the brake furthest from the MC using a vacuum tool I got at a well-known=
less expensive (think shipping at a port) tool store. It's been a letdown =
for several reasons, among them that the bleeders on the wheel cylinders se=
em too small for the bleeder fittings that came with the tool, which causes=
the tool to draw a great deal of air through its system. I seemed to barel=
y be able to get any fluid through the system. The trouble I have is that I=
am single and live alone, so I don't have any readily available sources of=
help. If the brakes are going to be bled, I have to do them by myself. Doe=
s anyone have any advice on this topic?=20
Thank you,=20
-William=20
1974 MGB=20
BQ_BEGIN
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]=20
Archive: [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs | http://www.team.net/pipermai=
l/mgs ] [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ]=
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<html><body><div style=3D"font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-s=
ize: 12pt; color: #000000"><div>Thank you for your reply.</div><div>As far =
as the type of wheel cylinders, I don't recall that there was a choice as t=
o whether they were for a GT or a roadster. The only choice was either Lock=
heed brand (maybe) for more $, or an aftermarket for less $. As far as I kn=
ow, the back plates are original, but I've only owned the car for 20 years.=
Its engine is not original, so who knows what else could have been swapped=
. </div><div>Can you shed more light on the whole speed bleeder thing?=
And how do do pedal pumping bleeding when you're by yourself?</div><div>Th=
e fluid is making its way back to the wheel cylinder, so no lines are crimp=
ed. But thanks to the poor fitment of the bleeder thing with the tool, I ca=
n't tell if the air bubbles are coming through the brake lines or are air b=
eing drawn into the bleeder because the fitment isn't good. </div><div=
>Yes, I did the clutch system a couple or three years ago. It was a bit fru=
strating, but seems ok now.</div><div><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div>T=
hank you,</div><div>-William</div><div><br></div><hr id=3D"zwchr" data-mark=
er=3D"__DIVIDER__"><div data-marker=3D"__HEADERS__"><b>From: </b>"Robert's =
New iPad" <mgbobh@gmail.com><br><b>To: </b>wkilleffer@epbfi.com<br><b=
>Cc: </b>mgs@autox.team.net<br><b>Sent: </b>Saturday, October 23, 2021 1:36=
:03 PM<br><b>Subject: </b>Re: [Mgs] MGB rear brake questions<br></div><div>=
<br></div><div data-marker=3D"__QUOTED_TEXT__"><div dir=3D"ltr"></div><div =
dir=3D"ltr"><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-space:pre">=09</s=
pan>The rear-brake question opens more questions. MGBs had rea=
r cylinders to fit the Tourers and the GTs, different sizes of cylinders an=
d different back plates. The roll pins located the cylinders i=
n the correct backing plates.</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span class=3D"Apple-ta=
b-span" style=3D"white-space:pre">=09</span>Thus the questions arise:  =
;Tourer back plates and new GT cylinders? GT backplates and new Tourer cyli=
nders? Car modified before you got it? Wrong cylinders ordered/=
shipped?</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"whit=
e-space:pre">=09</span>Having wrestled through this with my GT, it was year=
s back and now I do not recall which cylinders (size and pin location) are =
Tourer or GT. Someone will know, though, and that challenge easily ma=
stered. GT cylinders are larger, suited to the additional weight of =
GTs. If you have to swap parts, do it the way MG built it=E2=80=94the=
y got it right. </div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" =
style=3D"white-space:pre">=09</span>As you replaced them years ago, my bet =
is that the vendor shipped wrong cylinders. </div><div dir=3D"ltr"><sp=
an class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-space:pre">=09</span>As to the b=
leeding, my experience has been that ordinary pedal pushing has done fine f=
or me on many cars, though I did install speed bleeders on this GT. T=
hey are an easy exchange and work OK, but the savings of 1/4 cup of brake f=
luid doing the job are hardly worthwhile. If the rear brakes are dif=
ficult to bleed, have a close look at the metal pipes on the axle. A =
car that has been flat-bed carried may have had the straps wrapped around t=
he axle, crushing the tubes. That=E2=80=99s not an unusual thing to f=
ind.</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-sp=
ace:pre">=09</span>Since you are changing hoses, have you changed clutch ho=
se? These break down internally whilst appearing fine externally. As =
you do the change, do it swiftly, w/o interruption, as introducing a bubble=
into the line is altogether too easy, and bleeding the clutch line has mad=
e many an owner irate.</div><div dir=3D"ltr">Bob</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>=
</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>On Oct 23, 2021, at 1:04 PM, <a href=3D"mailto:w=
killeffer@epbfi.com" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer"=
>wkilleffer@epbfi.com</a> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote><div dir=3D"ltr">=
<div style=3D"font-family:'arial' , 'helvetica' , sans-serif;font-size:12pt=
;color:#000000"><div>Hello everyone,</div><br><div>The car I'm working on i=
s a 1974 MGB roadster. I decided that I wanted to replace everything relati=
ng to the brakes and their hydraulics except for the metal lines. I ordered=
the parts from Moss but had to sit on them for a couple of years before ac=
tually starting the project.</div><br><div>So, I got the new master cylinde=
r installed, which is probably one of the more challenging things I've ever=
done on the car. Next step was working on the rear brakes. The rubber hose=
in the back was pretty simple, but the issue is with the wheel cylinders. =
I replaced them maybe twenty years ago and didn't have any trouble. But the=
se new ones have a roller pin on them that doesn't line up with the holes o=
n the brake's backing plate. It's been too long to try and swap them with M=
oss, and I'm not sure that would do any good anyway because I don't recall =
that there were too many choices for that part. You could get a cheaper aft=
ermarket or a more expensive part that may be made in England. I went with =
the cheaper one.</div><br><div>Has this been an issue for anyone else? I co=
uld probably drill another hole in the back plate to match the roll pin, bu=
t that seems like one of those DPO solutions. Also, I don't feel like I sho=
uld have to entertain such a notion anyway. The part should fit and functio=
n correctly. The current wheel cylinders are probably ok to re-use, but I l=
iked the idea of all new parts. The front brakes are also on the agenda, bu=
t we're not there yet.</div><br><div>The next question has to do with bleed=
ing the rear brakes. I started to bleed the brake furthest from the MC usin=
g a vacuum tool I got at a well-known less expensive (think shipping at a p=
ort) tool store. It's been a letdown for several reasons, among them that t=
he bleeders on the wheel cylinders seem too small for the bleeder fittings =
that came with the tool, which causes the tool to draw a great deal of air =
through its system. I seemed to barely be able to get any fluid through the=
system. The trouble I have is that I am single and live alone, so I don't =
have any readily available sources of help. If the brakes are going to be b=
led, I have to do them by myself. Does anyone have any advice on this topic=
?</div><br><div>Thank you,</div><div>-William</div><div>1974 MGB</div></div=
></div></blockquote><blockquote><div dir=3D"ltr">__________________________=
_____________________<br><br><a href=3D"mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net"; target=
=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer">Mgs@autox.team.net</a><br>=
=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Su=
ggested annual donation $12.75<br><br>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.=
team.net/pipermail/mgs" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferr=
er">http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs</a> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/=
archive" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer">http://auto=
x.team.net/archive</a><br><br>Unsubscribe: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net=
/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nofollow no=
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om</a></div></blockquote><br></div></div></body></html>
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