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I don't really have any answers, I can just confirm that wheel cylinders =
are a part which has been =E2=80=9Cdown-qualitied=E2=80=9D to the point =
that they are scarcely serviceable. The offshore manufacturers seem to =
have settled on the tiniest possible bleeders, often with 7mm hexes =E2=80=
=94 a size so small that it is not included in most wrench sets, and =
which offers almost zero resistance to rounding.
Next time I am going to try rebuilding the cylinders instead. If they =
have been driven at all they usually don=E2=80=99t need honing =E2=80=94 =
just new seals.
As for the vacuum bleeder, I don=E2=80=99t know what the bleeder =
fittings in your kit look like, but maybe you could just substitute a =
different size hose? It has to seal well or it won=E2=80=99t work. In =
the past I have cobbled up adapters using metal tubes, different sizes =
of hose and hose clamps.
Good luck.
--
Max Heim
'66 MGB
> On Oct 23, 2021, at 10:04 AM, wkilleffer@epbfi.com wrote:
>=20
> Hello everyone,
>=20
> The car I'm working on is a 1974 MGB roadster. I decided that I wanted =
to replace everything relating to the brakes and their hydraulics except =
for the metal lines. I ordered the parts from Moss but had to sit on =
them for a couple of years before actually starting the project.
>=20
> So, I got the new master cylinder installed, which is probably one of =
the more challenging things I've ever done on the car. Next step was =
working on the rear brakes. The rubber hose in the back was pretty =
simple, but the issue is with the wheel cylinders. I replaced them maybe =
twenty years ago and didn't have any trouble. But these new ones have a =
roller pin on them that doesn't line up with the holes on the brake's =
backing plate. It's been too long to try and swap them with Moss, and =
I'm not sure that would do any good anyway because I don't recall that =
there were too many choices for that part. You could get a cheaper =
aftermarket or a more expensive part that may be made in England. I went =
with the cheaper one.
>=20
> Has this been an issue for anyone else? I could probably drill another =
hole in the back plate to match the roll pin, but that seems like one of =
those DPO solutions. Also, I don't feel like I should have to entertain =
such a notion anyway. The part should fit and function correctly. The =
current wheel cylinders are probably ok to re-use, but I liked the idea =
of all new parts. The front brakes are also on the agenda, but we're not =
there yet.
>=20
> The next question has to do with bleeding the rear brakes. I started =
to bleed the brake furthest from the MC using a vacuum tool I got at a =
well-known less expensive (think shipping at a port) tool store. It's =
been a letdown for several reasons, among them that the bleeders on the =
wheel cylinders seem too small for the bleeder fittings that came with =
the tool, which causes the tool to draw a great deal of air through its =
system. I seemed to barely be able to get any fluid through the system. =
The trouble I have is that I am single and live alone, so I don't have =
any readily available sources of help. If the brakes are going to be =
bled, I have to do them by myself. Does anyone have any advice on this =
topic?
>=20
> Thank you,
> -William
> 1974 MGB
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>=20
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs =
http://autox.team.net/archive
>=20
> Unsubscribe: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim@sonic.net
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D"">I =
don't really have any answers, I can just confirm that wheel cylinders =
are a part which has been =E2=80=9Cdown-qualitied=E2=80=9D to the point =
that they are scarcely serviceable. The offshore manufacturers seem to =
have settled on the tiniest possible bleeders, often with 7mm hexes =E2=80=
=94 a size so small that it is not included in most wrench sets, and =
which offers almost zero resistance to rounding.<div class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Next time I am going to try rebuilding =
the cylinders instead. If they have been driven at all they usually =
don=E2=80=99t need honing =E2=80=94 just new seals.</div><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">As for the vacuum =
bleeder, I don=E2=80=99t know what the bleeder fittings in your kit look =
like, but maybe you could just substitute a different size hose? It has =
to seal well or it won=E2=80=99t work. In the past I have cobbled up =
adapters using metal tubes, different sizes of hose and hose =
clamps.</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Good =
luck.</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""><div class=3D"">
<div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0); letter-spacing: normal; text-align: =
start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; =
word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; word-wrap: =
break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: =
after-white-space;" class=3D""><div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0); =
letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; =
text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space;" =
class=3D""><div style=3D"margin: 0px; font-size: 13px;" =
class=3D"">--</div><div style=3D"margin: 0px; font-size: 13px; =
min-height: 16px;" class=3D"">Max Heim</div><div style=3D"margin: 0px; =
font-size: 13px;" class=3D"">'66 MGB</div></div></div>
</div>
<div><br class=3D""><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div =
class=3D"">On Oct 23, 2021, at 10:04 AM, <a =
href=3D"mailto:wkilleffer@epbfi.com"; class=3D"">wkilleffer@epbfi.com</a> =
wrote:</div><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><div =
class=3D""><div style=3D"font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; =
font-size: 12pt;" class=3D""><div class=3D"">Hello everyone,</div><div =
class=3D""><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1" class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">The =
car I'm working on is a 1974 MGB roadster. I decided that I wanted to =
replace everything relating to the brakes and their hydraulics except =
for the metal lines. I ordered the parts from Moss but had to sit on =
them for a couple of years before actually starting the =
project.</div><div class=3D""><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1" =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">So, I got the new master cylinder =
installed, which is probably one of the more challenging things I've =
ever done on the car. Next step was working on the rear brakes. The =
rubber hose in the back was pretty simple, but the issue is with the =
wheel cylinders. I replaced them maybe twenty years ago and didn't have =
any trouble. But these new ones have a roller pin on them that doesn't =
line up with the holes on the brake's backing plate. It's been too long =
to try and swap them with Moss, and I'm not sure that would do any good =
anyway because I don't recall that there were too many choices for that =
part. You could get a cheaper aftermarket or a more expensive part that =
may be made in England. I went with the cheaper one.</div><div =
class=3D""><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1" class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Has =
this been an issue for anyone else? I could probably drill another hole =
in the back plate to match the roll pin, but that seems like one of =
those DPO solutions. Also, I don't feel like I should have to entertain =
such a notion anyway. The part should fit and function correctly. The =
current wheel cylinders are probably ok to re-use, but I liked the idea =
of all new parts. The front brakes are also on the agenda, but we're not =
there yet.</div><div class=3D""><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1" =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">The next question has to do with =
bleeding the rear brakes. I started to bleed the brake furthest from the =
MC using a vacuum tool I got at a well-known less expensive (think =
shipping at a port) tool store. It's been a letdown for several reasons, =
among them that the bleeders on the wheel cylinders seem too small for =
the bleeder fittings that came with the tool, which causes the tool to =
draw a great deal of air through its system. I seemed to barely be able =
to get any fluid through the system. The trouble I have is that I am =
single and live alone, so I don't have any readily available sources of =
help. If the brakes are going to be bled, I have to do them by myself. =
Does anyone have any advice on this topic?</div><div class=3D""><br =
data-mce-bogus=3D"1" class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Thank =
you,</div><div class=3D"">-William</div><div class=3D"">1974 =
MGB</div></div></div>_______________________________________________<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D""><a href=3D"mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net"; =
class=3D"">Mgs@autox.team.net</a><br class=3D"">Donate: =
$12.75<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">Archive: =
http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D"">Unsubscribe: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim@sonic.net<br =
class=3D""></div></blockquote></div><br class=3D""></div></body></html>=
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