Also keep in mind that a good cam shop can recondition lifters by reshaping the
contact surface back to the original profile. Wouldn't do it on hydraulics.
If you find that good shop, let me know. Recent experience showed that a local
cam shop botched the recondition and some of the lifters wouldn't fit in the
bore. Lesson learned: buy new lifters.
>>> sheldon <sheldon@ssmachine.com> 05/02 1:09 PM >>>
Antonio,
anytime you replace a cam you MUST replace the lifters. If the bottom of
the lifters are worn only alittle, they will not mate/match the profile on
the new cam, causing masive cam/lifter wear in the first few minutes of
running. The new cam will specify if you need solid or hydraulic lifters.
(If you just remove and replace a cam/lifters it's critical that the same
lifter goes back to the same lobe of the cam) Cam lobes are actually
tapered and the lifters are rounded on the bottom so that the lifters
"spin" as the engine runs.
Sheldon Schmidt '56 4x4 napco
Hydraulic Vs. Solid.
Pardon my ignorance, but how do I recognize a solid vs a hydraulic
lifter. I am in the process off rebuilding my engine, I am an amateur. I
am taking the engine apart and took the push rods and the lifters out,
the lifters have like a cup shape at the top where the push rods
contacts the lifter. I will be installing a Patrick's cam and when I
called them they asked me if the lifters are solid vs hydraulic. I would
like to keep the original lifter and push rods. I had my father measure
them and they don't have much wear, he is a retired machinist and has
the right tools and skills to make the measurements. Can anyone guide me
to recognize the lifter to be able to order the right cam.
Thanks,
Antonio,
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