Jim
Make sure that the brake shoes are adjusted properly. If not, the
shoes and springs will open and not press against the drums and
therefore offer no resistence... therefore no peddle pressure.
Also make sure that the relief plate in the kit is on the correct
side of the rubber cups and that the plunger is not in backwards??
Rogerg
51-3100 AD Stocker
> From: "Jim and Elaine" <phippsj@camalott.com>
> To: "oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [oletrucks] Master Brake Cylinder Rebuild
> Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 17:10:52 -0500
> Reply-to: "Jim and Elaine" <phippsj@camalott.com>
> Question. What would cause a newly rebuilt master brake cylinder (original)
> in a 57 3/4 t p/u to work even worse after being rebuilt? I ask because
> mine was leaking fluid all over and had to be pumped up to work, but it
> would work some. I rebuilt it using a kit from American Classic truck
> parts. I had to hone it some as it had internal rust, and maybe that's the
> whole problem. I didn't go excessive with the hone, and everything still
> seems tight. Problem is that after rebuilding and bleeding about a qt of
> brake fluid through it (there is no air left in the lines!), it has
> absolutely no resistance in the pedal! I tore it apart again, and started
> the whole procedure over with the same results the 2nd time. I've ordered
> another rebuild kit from a local parts house, but I'm not overly optimistic.
> I've double checked the shop manual, bled the cylinder before and after
> installing, used the proper bleeding sequence (RR, LR, RF, LF), and now I'm
> lost. I hate to give up and order another cylinder because I'm not that bad
> a mechanic, I actually enjoy rebuilding things (sometimes) and I can tend to
> be a little (my version, not my wife's) stubborn. Any of you more
> experienced types, I'd appreciate any suggestions!
>
> Jim Phipps
> 57 3604
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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