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Re: [oletrucks] Master Brake Cylinder Rebuild

To: "Jim and Elaine" <phippsj@camalott.com>
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Master Brake Cylinder Rebuild
From: jelerath@us.ibm.com
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 17:45:32 -0600

Be sure the rubber pieces that go on the piston are installed in the correct
direction.  The "flare" should open and push harder against the cylinder wall
when pressure is applied. (How's this for a picture?)  If it is backwards, all
the fluid will squeeze around it.

            Piston   Rubber "goodie" w/ flare
           _______________________________________
              _____   /
              |    | /
 force >>>     \   | |
  ++++++++++++++|  | |   fluid on this side
               /   | |
              |    | |
              ------ |
 rubber boot on      \
 this side  ___________\__________________________
                                        cylinder wall
Jon Elerath
jelerath@us.ibm.com



"Jim and Elaine" <phippsj@camalott.com> on 07/12/99 03:10:52 PM

Please respond to "Jim and Elaine" <phippsj@camalott.com>

To:   "oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
cc:
Subject:  [oletrucks] Master Brake Cylinder Rebuild





Question.  What would cause a newly rebuilt master brake cylinder (original)
in a 57 3/4 t p/u to work even worse after being rebuilt?  I ask because
mine was leaking fluid all over and had to be pumped up to work, but it
would work some.  I rebuilt it using a kit from American Classic truck
parts.  I had to hone it some as it had internal rust, and maybe that's the
whole problem.  I didn't go excessive with the hone, and everything still
seems tight.  Problem is that after rebuilding and bleeding about a qt of
brake fluid through it (there is no air left in the lines!), it has
absolutely no resistance in the pedal!  I tore it apart again, and started
the whole procedure over with the same results the 2nd time.  I've ordered
another rebuild kit from a local parts house, but I'm not overly optimistic.
I've double checked the shop manual, bled the cylinder before and after
installing, used the proper bleeding sequence (RR, LR, RF, LF), and now I'm
lost.  I hate to give up and order another cylinder because I'm not that bad
a mechanic, I actually enjoy rebuilding things (sometimes) and I can tend to
be a little (my version, not my wife's) stubborn.  Any of you more
experienced types, I'd appreciate any suggestions!

Jim Phipps
57 3604

oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959



oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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