Doug,
Here are two.
http://www.sharpe1.com/dr-pipe.htm
http://www.tptools.com/StaticText/piping_diagram.pdf
Dan Jacobsen - PA
'49 3100 327/powerglide
'55.1 3100 rodstoration 350/350 MII
'48 4400 Front sheet metal on a '87 chassis (still need a cab)
'35 Dodge Business Coupe - All original
'35 Dodge Business Coupe - Complete parts car - Future streetrod project
>From: "Doug Pewterbaugh" <dpewter@msn.com>
>Reply-To: "Doug Pewterbaugh" <dpewter@msn.com>
>To: "Bruce K" <bekett@uslink.net>, <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [oletrucks] compressed air
>Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 10:12:51 -0600
>
>Somebody recently posted a link to a compressed air equipment manufacturers
>website that included a very detailed hypothetical air layout for a home
>sized shop. Sorry, I can't find the URL. Anyone else?
>
>Regards,
>Doug Pewterbaugh
>dpewter@msn.com
>Denton, TX
>49 3104 216 5-window
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Bruce K" <bekett@uslink.net>
>To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2001 10:08 PM
>Subject: Re: [oletrucks] compressed air
>
>
> > An air line can never be too big or too strong <g>
> >
> > I would go with the steel pipe. Your plan sounds good, but don't
> > forget to set the pipe up so any water trapped in it can be drained.
> > Forget PVC, it gets weak if it is too hot or cold.
> >
> > I don't think you really need galvenized pipe, black should do just
> > fine for inside work. Remember to seal the threads.
> >
> > I would use a short piece of hose to the compressor for the final
> > link to isolate vibration and I would use a valve at the compressor
> > to shut the system off if something goes bad.
> >
> > Secure the bibs well, they take a lot of force from the air hose
> > attached to them. At each bib, I would put a T with a dead downbound
> > leg about 6" long to catch any rust or dust that makes its way down
> > the pipe.
> >
> > I don't know how large your compressor is, but I would include a
> > 1" valve and plug for a future port close to the compressor if you
> > want to sandblast or tie in a portable compressor some day.
> >
> > I would set the main pipe up to slope towards drain points. It doesn't
> > take much, 1/8 inch per foot is fine.
> >
> > Don't forget to put in a few unions here and there in case you ever
> > have to take the assembly apart for some reason.
> >
> > Finally, compressors are noisey and they should be fed clean air.
> > Think about putting the compressor in a separate shed outside the
> > garage.
> >
> > Have fun. Renting a good Rigid pipe cutting and threading tool for
> > the day when you put it together will make things go quicker. Sure
> > beats having the hardware store cut and thread a bunch of pipe sections
> > or buying lots of nipp1es. (don't know about this board, but some
> > screen for words like that!)
> >
> > If it freezes in your area, be sure to blow out any moisture in the
> > system in the fall.
> >
> > Bruce Kettunen
> > 57 3200
> > MN
> >
> >
> >
> > At Saturday, 8 December 2001, you wrote:
> >
> > >Hey all,
> > > I am looking to add compressed air in my shop. The question
> > is what kind
> > >of pipe. Galvanized steel, black iron, or PVC. PVC is sure cheaper
> > but I'm
> > >told perhaps unsafe. I am only looking to handle 125psi with 1"
> > pipe to the
> > >general bench area then 1/2" to the drop points with curly plastic from
> > >there. Any advice on what is best? Thanks..........tom 50---3600
> > >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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