OK,
Last spring I was compressor shopping and we got a long string of messages
on this topic. I stated that I had more time then money and wanted to get a
"good deal". So as I went on the great compressor hunt. I wanted a 110
that would be on wheels that I could move around. I found that Craftsman had
a wide range of compressors that I could afford. I found a kit that had the
compressor - a paint sprayer and a air wrench all for $350.00 (6.4 at 90 -
135lbs - 30 gal tank vertical). This kit was on sale and also with the
Craftsman Club (join this free club today if you like sears tools) discount
I got an additional 10% off.
Well the compressor I ended up with was a single stage. It gave the noise
numbers but I did not at that time understand them. My wife is a plant
manager and after I purchased it and then asked her - she stated that this
number is in the range to cause permanent ear damage if you do not have ear
protection EVERY TIME you use it. More money on ear protection.
I then went on a sandblaster hunt. Got a bucket kit and is did not work to
good. So I got the next item a siphon feeder from Sears. It works good.
However the compressor runs ALL of the time and most of the time it will run
out of air before I do. I then wait for it to recharge. At the time I
thought I had more time that I do, since I am covered with dust and just
standing around. As an average I can blast for 20 minutes and stand for 40
minutes each hour. I also discovered that this small stream of sand sure
cuts off the crap but it is a small stream and takes forever to get
something large done. My first rim took over 3 hours.
I have used the sprayer and it works good. I used it to paint house doors
with latex paint. It gummed up a few times but the end result was good. I
did not understand the oversparying and have a good number of tools with
brown specks on them, along with a lot of stuff in the garage. This gun
would be good for primer but nothing else, to do the truck is something
other than primer I will need to purchase a good air gun. I have never used
the air wrench even when I could have used it seemed to me that it would
take more time to hook it all up and fill the compressor then to use the old
crank wrench.
Well now I can say it BOB ADler you were right - I should have spent the
extra $200 got a GREAT 2 stage compressor with 220 and run a feed from it to
where I would work. In the long run it would have been cheaper and I would
still have more time than money!
Go 2 stage, buy more than you need now - if like me you are only making one
compressor purchase in you life - go big - do not just get one that you
think you can get by with!
NHJim
45 Chevy 3104
(I now have 6 inches of snow on the truck - but next year - boy will I make
progress)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of A.B.
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 12:28 PM
To: Old Chevy Pickup
Cc: old truck mailing list
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] compressed air
While we are talking about air compressors, I've been doing some research
because I'm thinking of upgrading my compressor.
>From previous threads, it seems like most people on this list seem to
think 2 stage is the way to go because you can get high PSI (usually 175)
and CFM (around 15 for the compressors I've been looking at). I'm just not
really sure why I need 175 PSI? For about 1/3 to 1/2 the price of a 2
stage compressor, I can get a single stage compressor that will deliver up
to 16 CFM at 90 PSI. It seem slike most air tools only require 90 PSI, so
why do I need 175? I'm not trying to be cheap, just educated. Thanks.
-alfie
On Mon, 10 Dec 2001, Old Chevy Pickup wrote:
> Doug,
>
> Here are two.
> http://www.sharpe1.com/dr-pipe.htm
> http://www.tptools.com/StaticText/piping_diagram.pdf
>
> Dan Jacobsen - PA
>
> '49 3100 327/powerglide
> '55.1 3100 rodstoration 350/350 MII
> '48 4400 Front sheet metal on a '87 chassis (still need a cab)
> '35 Dodge Business Coupe - All original
> '35 Dodge Business Coupe - Complete parts car - Future streetrod project
>
>
>
> >From: "Doug Pewterbaugh" <dpewter@msn.com>
> >Reply-To: "Doug Pewterbaugh" <dpewter@msn.com>
> >To: "Bruce K" <bekett@uslink.net>, <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: Re: [oletrucks] compressed air
> >Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 10:12:51 -0600
> >
> >Somebody recently posted a link to a compressed air equipment
manufacturers
> >website that included a very detailed hypothetical air layout for a home
> >sized shop. Sorry, I can't find the URL. Anyone else?
> >
> >Regards,
> >Doug Pewterbaugh
> >dpewter@msn.com
> >Denton, TX
> >49 3104 216 5-window
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Bruce K" <bekett@uslink.net>
> >To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2001 10:08 PM
> >Subject: Re: [oletrucks] compressed air
> >
> >
> > > An air line can never be too big or too strong <g>
> > >
> > > I would go with the steel pipe. Your plan sounds good, but don't
> > > forget to set the pipe up so any water trapped in it can be drained.
> > > Forget PVC, it gets weak if it is too hot or cold.
> > >
> > > I don't think you really need galvenized pipe, black should do just
> > > fine for inside work. Remember to seal the threads.
> > >
> > > I would use a short piece of hose to the compressor for the final
> > > link to isolate vibration and I would use a valve at the compressor
> > > to shut the system off if something goes bad.
> > >
> > > Secure the bibs well, they take a lot of force from the air hose
> > > attached to them. At each bib, I would put a T with a dead downbound
> > > leg about 6" long to catch any rust or dust that makes its way down
> > > the pipe.
> > >
> > > I don't know how large your compressor is, but I would include a
> > > 1" valve and plug for a future port close to the compressor if you
> > > want to sandblast or tie in a portable compressor some day.
> > >
> > > I would set the main pipe up to slope towards drain points. It
doesn't
> > > take much, 1/8 inch per foot is fine.
> > >
> > > Don't forget to put in a few unions here and there in case you ever
> > > have to take the assembly apart for some reason.
> > >
> > > Finally, compressors are noisey and they should be fed clean air.
> > > Think about putting the compressor in a separate shed outside the
> > > garage.
> > >
> > > Have fun. Renting a good Rigid pipe cutting and threading tool for
> > > the day when you put it together will make things go quicker. Sure
> > > beats having the hardware store cut and thread a bunch of pipe
sections
> > > or buying lots of nipp1es. (don't know about this board, but some
> > > screen for words like that!)
> > >
> > > If it freezes in your area, be sure to blow out any moisture in the
> > > system in the fall.
> > >
> > > Bruce Kettunen
> > > 57 3200
> > > MN
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > At Saturday, 8 December 2001, you wrote:
> > >
> > > >Hey all,
> > > > I am looking to add compressed air in my shop. The question
> > > is what kind
> > > >of pipe. Galvanized steel, black iron, or PVC. PVC is sure cheaper
> > > but I'm
> > > >told perhaps unsafe. I am only looking to handle 125psi with 1"
> > > pipe to the
> > > >general bench area then 1/2" to the drop points with curly plastic
from
> > > >there. Any advice on what is best? Thanks..........tom 50---3600
> > > >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
1959
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ===================================================================
> > > EASY and FREE access to your email anywhere: http://kralweb.com/mail
> > > ===================================================================
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
1959
> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|