In the late 40's my dad and a neighbor (who was a VERY experienced body man)
took two 37 Chevy's, and made one good one from them. They cut both bodies
across the windshield pillars, and across the floorpan. (From doorway to
doorway) And then welded the two good parts together. You couldn't see the
seam, even if you knew where it was. The biggest problem was getting the
measurements right. The main Chevy had gone thru the Vanport Flood (1947?).
My dad and I (I was abt 11 at the time!) and my 3 year older brother, took
everything apart in that car-brakes, engine, generator, starter, etc, and
rebuilt it. I did a lot of disassembly, and sanding. It was a good car when
we finished. Lasted for a LONG time. But I think that is abt the simplest
way of mating two bodies. Bob K in PHX, AZ.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Lubitz" <mlubitz@texas.net>
To: "Gary Perry" <glperry@fwi.com>; "Gary R. Schwarzrock"
<gschwarz@airtimeisp.net>; <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2003 8:19 AM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] advice on rust treatments
> Gary,
>
> I was thinking the same thing some years ago. I have been dissuaded.
>
> This is from an email from one of this group that might be helpful:
>
> "There is a section in Tom Brownells book "How top Restore Your Chevrolet
> Pickup" on this procedure. It is written by Ric Hall. The article is on
> page 127. There are pictures. It sure seems like a lot of work. I got
my
> copy from Motorbooks International. You can order from your friendly
> bookseller. The ISBN on mine is 0-87938-500-6
>
> Good luck'
>
> Michael Lubitz
> '46 3/4 ton stock pick up, "Buddy"
> '48 three window hot rod
> Austin, Texas
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gary Perry" <glperry@fwi.com>
> To: "Gary R. Schwarzrock" <gschwarz@airtimeisp.net>;
> <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2003 7:12 PM
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] advice on rust treatments
>
>
> > I think your NUTS on the window idea. Yes, it's been done, some fellas
on
> > www.stovebolt.com site have pictures if you ask. Realize that the cab is
> > double wall. You'll need a little more metal than just around the rubber
> > part. The two walls narrow in to be pinch welded to make that window
> flange.
> > Some fellas have removed the whole top from waist joint behind seat to
the
> > front windshield posts and welded one in from a 5-window cab. Buy a diff
> > truck!
> >
> > G. L. Grumpy's
> > Old Iron Ranch
> > Huntington, IN 46750
> > AD trucks and MM tractors
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Gary R. Schwarzrock" <gschwarz@airtimeisp.net>
> > To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2003 1:35 PM
> > Subject: [oletrucks] advice on rust treatments
> >
> >
> > > Does anyone have any good or bad comments on rust treatments? There
> are
> > > three products that I have seen mentioned:
> > >
> > > Eastwood "corolless"
> > > POR-15
> > > Rust Bullet
> > >
> > > And a second thought. Has anyone thought of or tried to make a 5
window
> > cab
> > > by cutting the window ports out of a thrashed deluxe cab and grafting
> them
> > > into a good cab? My thought was to cut the windows out right where
the
> > > rubber molding is on the outside with the thought that the drop into
the
> > > window hole and some "careful welding" might control the warpage, and
> then
> > > cut the inside close to the door post and the rear window to get some
> > > support for the weld seams on the inside.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Gary 1954 Chev 3100
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
1959
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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