Yes that is the best way to prep metal for finish adhesion, now you need to
pick a protective finish , my point was we have found that the oil based
paints seem to better protect metal exposed to road chemicals than other
finishes. Tom's input is very good and I'm sure he has experienced these
things many times and I believe he lives where protection factors are
critical, much more than us desert rats.
Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Durand" <kdurand@MIT.EDU>
To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2004 6:49 AM
Subject: [oletrucks] 56 Chevy Frame Painting
> I had my frame sandblasted and primed for $125. At the time, I thought
> that was a lot of money. Now I would pay twice that.
>
> Most sandblasters will paint and prime as well as sandblast. There is no
> better way to make paint stick, and it is hardly expensive.
>
> Keith
>
>
> >
> > Date: Tue, Apr 6, 2004, 3:02pm From: Pattie1tom@aol.com
> > To: oletrucks@autox.team.net Subject: [oletrucks] 56 Chevy
> > Frame Painting X-AOL-IP:
> > Hello
> > Well my 56 Chevy is stripped down to the frame. The plan is to de-rust
> > the frame and paint. I have two quick questions:
> > 1) what is the proper frame color for a 56
> > 2) what type of paint is best to use (i.e. por-15, zero-rust or waht
> > about rustoleum) (this may open some bantering on the subject but just
> > tying to be cost effective)
> > If the frame is stripped down to bare metal, primed and top coated, why
> > not use rustoleum. I am in Florida and will not be picking up too much
> > salt of the roads.
> > Any thought will be greatful.
> > Cheers,
> > Tom
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > End of oletrucks-digest V2 #2213
> > ********************************
>
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