First off, thanks to everyone for your help so far. I appreciate it and
hope the goodwill and good information keeps coming my way.
Les Myer wrote:
> Nope, not good enough. Leave the block there while you get pistons
> (oversize per the machinist). He will size the cylinders to each
> piston with a hone.
Okay.
> The machinist will have to install the pistons on the rods
The wrist pins are an interference fit in the rods and fit close in the
pistons. Correct?
What tools will the machinist use to do this?
I have been told it is doable by heating the pistons and rods to about
450degF and chilling the wrist pins in the freezer overnight.
> (which will probably need resized on the big end anyways)
What does it mean to have the big ends resized?
> When going back together, remember the longer rod-cap boss on rods 1
> and 3 goes to the rear - on 2 and 4, the long boss goes to the front.
Thanks.
> If the piston has a dot or a mark, this goes to the front (otherwise
> they are probably omnidirectional pistons). If this is your first
> time, it might be best to have an experienced friend show you how to
> orient the rings (yes, you need a special tool to get them on the
> pistons without damaging them or the pistons), compress them, install
> the crank/pistons/bearings, and how to plastiguage clearances.
I plan to get some guidance, but all of my car friends live a few hundred
miles away, so the best guidance I'll get is by telephone or e-mail.
> Not meaning to scare you, just trying to save some heartache and
> frustration as well as make sure it is done right.
I appreciate it. This is the sort of guidance I'm looking for. But, I
am on a budget and I am determined to understand every part of the
process, even if I farm it out to a machinist. I also intend to do as
much as I can myself. Guess I've been reading a little too much Bob
Hoover, eh? (See http://www.type2.com/sermons/).
--
Matt Liggett
'60 Mini, '70 Midget, '89 SAAB 900t SPG
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