Ron Fraser said,
> This has been said before;
>
> If it's not puking it's not over heating.
While a catchy saying, it is admitting that Tigers are marginal and not
puking is the best that can be done. I have done better than that.
Prior to replacing the water pump my car would run 220 to 230 on the
freeway. I could shut it off and it would not boil over thanks to the 13 psi
cap. My car was not puking but I could not push it at high speed or big
hills. Now I can push all I want and it stays under 200.
> Always check your Temp gage for accuracy.
Done, checked agains a thermocouple in the hot tank of the radiator and
against an infrared gun. MY dash gauge is accurate to less than 5 degrees F
error. YMMV and probably does.
> Adding horsepower increases the amount of heat generated.
Very true, I have 180 ponies at the rear wheel. Now my cooling system has
a little margin for more ponies
>
> The cooling system must always be treated as a complete system.
>
> I started by getting the stock radiator and the block clean using a dry
> chemical flush. The amount of sand and rust that came out was
staggering.
>
> I reworked the stock water pump with a new Ford Motorsport impeller,
> installed the Ford 6 blade fan, and a 180 degree thermostat.
>
> I have no other modification and I have no more over heating problems.
> My Tiger is a stock 260 with 2bbl carb.
>
> If your coolant temperature is less than 180 you are increasing the wear
> inside the block. The Ford engine will have the least amount of internal
> wear if the coolant temperature is 180 to 190.
I too am using a 180 now.
>
> Ron Fraser
Thanks for sharing your combo.
Erich
>
>
>
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