Dave,
At one time there were significant differences in oil, and application.
Petroleum based. and castor bean oil - required for racing cars and
Bugatti. The story goes that the Bugatti (or Offenhauser) engine owner
would have the chauffeur (or mechanic) drain the sump after the car was
garaged. and heat the oil with the breakfast in the morning, before
adding it hot to the engine. (the Castor Oil, not the porridge.)
This was a fussy lubricant, but many miles ahead of petroleum based. In
fact "Castrol" got it's name from its ingredient, and the smell of the
exhaust was perfumed by the hotter oil. It was used, however, because
it allowed race cars to finish races.
After the War (II) "multigrade, petroleum based oils ha additives to
keep a consistent viscosity over a larger temperature range. 10W-30 was
introduced. I am sure the range is much greater now, but there are
still special oils for transmissions and rear ends. Some
transmissions use Motor Oil. And there are synthetics made for every
application, from sump to brakes. Each has their proper application,
and non lubrication engineers are still arguing over it. There is a
proper use for all.
I was talked into running in the re-built Tiger with normal gear oil,
and dumping it all out at 1,000 miles and changing to Mobil One gear oil
(synthetic). The difference was noted as soon as I got the car off the
rack. It was much easier to shift, and reacted smoothly. Of course
there should be a difference between $1/qt. and $10/qt. :-)
Steve
___
Steve Laifman
Editor - TigersUnited.com
DJoh797014@aol.com wrote:
>He is saying that as long as the can has the correct
>SAE letters you are seeking, it doesn't matter what
>label is on the can. Kmart, is as good as my Quaker
>State I like (only because I get it at 89 cents/ quart)
>as long as I change it often.
>
>As the listers have suggested, I use Motorcraft filters
>exclusively in my Ford cars.
>
>Yes the man who doesn't worship Ford owns and drives
>two.
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