Regarding a proportioning valve, I would delay a decision until after the brake
changes, whatever they may be, are installed. Test the system and see if front
or rear lock up first.
Put 4 white shoe polish stripes on the tire sidewall, equally spaced, front and
rear on one side. In some deserted parking lot, get the car up to about 30+ mph
and hit the brakes hard to lock them while some one is watching/or filming the
test. You do not want the rears to lock up first as a sliding tire has less
traction than a rolling one.
If you decide to put in a proportioning valve, remember that it is a detuning
device. It lowers the effectiveness of the better performing brakes to be more
in keeping with the lesser performing brakes for better balance.
Were it me, I would try to upgrade the lesser performing end to be more in
keeping with the better performing end for better overall performance. You do
that by using different brake pads, shoes. With the stock system on my car, I
am very happy with Hawk HP pads in the front and Porterfield custom relined
shoes in the back using vintage racing shoe lining. The Hawk HP pads do "dust"
a lot, but that is a small price to pay for how well they work. If you go to
something like the Hawk pads, be sure to break them in properly.
My 2 cents.
Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Parker" <tkparker1941@gmail.com>
To: "LIST TIGER" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 9:33:21 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Brakes
In response to Karl Adey's post, some thoughts on brakes and some
observations based on experience. Regarding the dual master cylinder, no
practical experience. The dual Wilwood, if memory serves, has something
like a 1" diameter bore. This may cause braking issues with the stock Tiger
brakes. I haven't done it, so I have no practical experience.
First the proportioner: I'd suggest using one because you want the bulk of
the braking to be on the front brakes. Granted the rear drum brakes are
somewhat anemic, but you may find some handling issues with too much
pressure to the rear. Again, I haven't done it, so I'm speculating.
What I did do was bypass the Girling booster - out of necessity - using the
stock Lucas 7/8" bore single master cylinder. The pedal feel was so hard
the car - to me - was almost undrivable. I ended up buying a 3/4" bore
master cylinder from C.A.T. which worked well. When I reinstalled the
Girling I stayed with the 3/4" bore master; the braking is, imho,
excellent. A much better feel than the 7/8" bore cylinder.
When Tim Suddard wrote about the Wilwood brake conversion in Classic
Motorsports I had some conversation with Wilwood management on the
conversion. I'm told the Wilwood masters are designed for use with Wilwood
calipers front and (preferably) rear. They have a lot more volume, I'm
told, than the stock front Tiger calipers, and certainly a lot more volume
than the single piston rear brake cylinders. Summit Racing carries the
Wilwood front brake kits for the Tiger. Dale A. sells rear disk brake
kits. My point: the Wilwood dual master cylinders may be overkill for the
stock Tiger braking system. As a result the pedal feel may be really really
hard.
Tom
'67 Mark 2
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