Bruce---Your to-do list looks complete for when you open up the bell
housing.
Your symptoms match either/or what happens when there is excessive play
in the pedal box, or the fork pin breaks.
If you are going to have a backup plan (recommended) for the fork pin,
you can use a 1/4 inch Allen bolt (long enough so no threads are under
shear) or a 1/4 inch roll pin. These need to be snug enough in their
bore to share the load with the fork pin.
The LuK clutch should hold the 150 hp. The throwout bearing doesn't come
into play here so far as hp, but the Gunst is receiving a well-earned
rep as a good bearing.
If the extra effort required to release the clutch with the .75 bore is
more than comfortable, you should be able to return to the .70 and have
plenty of pedal travel to disengage the (new) clutch.
The SC dust cover "pops out" probably because the piston is way down in
the bore. This can happen when the fork pin breaks and the return action
from the clutch operating shaft is in a different place. Your SC should
be OK as is.
Dick
From: brucesimms2003@yahoo.ca(Bruce SimmsFellow Listers:
I only shift into reverse with the engine off, otherwise way
too much grinding and clashing. 1st is tight, especially when
shifting when stopped. Bit of a whistle or whine when clutch pedal in.
Highway speed shifting is acceptable.
I'm guessing I need a new release bearing and that the
clutch fork pin is shot. I'll see when I get in there. A good
mechanic did a clutch job 3-4 years ago, but it never was quite right.
I installed the .75 bore master cylinder, it helped a bit but not
enough. Clutch seems heavier.
My 73 is a street car with a number of mods to upgrade power
such as shaved and ported head, more cam, headers, SUs etc. Maybe
140 hp. I'm thinking about doing the following:
1) LUK clutch kit with Gunst release bearing from Roadster
Factory winter sale.
2) Drill clutch fork and install bolt and nyloc nut. Bolt
size?
3) New fork pin and bushes
4) New rear engine seal.
5) Resurface flywheel or lightened flywheel? Not sure about
lightened flywheel yet. An aluminum flywheel would be interesting but
pricey.
6) New pilot bearing
7) New transmission seal (s)
8) Slave cylinder was re-built during clutch job. The seal
seems to come off the slave due to the force required, so maybe I'll
just replace it. Lockheed seems to be the brand sold now.
Will the Luk/Gunst be a reliable set-up for up to 150 hp? Is
my work list accurate?
All feedback greatly appreciated. I know
this is not a new topic, but I really want to do this job just once.
Thank you, Bruce Simms CF1941UO
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