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Re: Rear Camber

To: Greg Perry <rgperry@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Rear Camber
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>
Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 10:07:30 -0500 (EST)
On Tue, 13 Dec 2005, Greg Perry wrote:

> Hello,

Howdy.
 
> What rear camber is recommended with an uprated handling spring set
> (standard road height)?  

The answer depends on two things: the tires that you have and the expected
load.

If you run bias ply tires (don't laugh, most racing slicks are bias-ply)
you run with very little static camber... I have about .5 degrees in my
race car.

With radial tires you want more negative camber, but don't go insane. 1
degree is plenty unless your suspension is really soft (allowing for more
body roll) and you like driving with the car cranked over to the bump
stops.

The load factor is important because with the TR6, as you increase load on
the back of the car it squats and as the suspension compresses, the camber
changes to negative and eventually extreme negative camber.

> It seems that modern cars with independent
> rear suspensions use a more negative camber these days.  The triumph
> recommendation is optimally + 1/2 degree camber or anywhere between -1
> and +1 degree camber.  With the uprated springs there is significantly
> less squat when accelerating and when loaded.

What you see on other cars probably does not matter with respect to the
TR6. If you're talking E30 BMW's (with semi-trailing arm rear suspension
like the TR6) then you might see the condition of 1.5 or even 2 degrees
negative (static), and more than this amount of camber can be observed but
is def. not EVER necessary. If you're talking about Hondas and other
Import Racers(tm) then the excess camber is probably more for looks than
for actual handling.

The Triumph +.5 static is there to allow for the camber change when you
put a driver in the car, but that assumes the WIMPY stock rear springs. If
you have upgraded to stiffer rear springs, then you need to dial that +.5
out because the suspension won't normally compress enough to get the
camber to +0 where it should be under ideal conditions. So if you throw in
stiff springs, get a "custom" alignment and have them dial in +0 or
perhaps -.5 degrees of rear camber. NO MORE.

> Thanks,
> 
> Greg Perry

regards,
rml
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