The biggest difference is that the "teeth" on the stock washer are square
tipped. The washer has a hole in the middle with 6 square notches around the
perimeter, resulting in teeth that match the curvature of the bore. So it
provides friction against the bore but has less tendency to create grooves
because the teeth match the bore circumference. This allows it to be pushed
out without scratching the bore. Since it lives in oil, I wouldn't worry
about oiling it unless its been dry for a while. Be careful that whatever
you use to push the assembly out has enough diameter so that it doesn't
damage the threads on the needle carrier (been there).
I would recommend using some grease or sil-glyde on the o-ring before
inserting it in the bore. If the o-ring is not able to slip on the carrier
or the bore, it is difficult to get it to turn when using the adjustment
tool. I had the best luck inserting the needle carrier just below the edge
of the tube then inserting the washer in place and pushing both to the
bottom of the tube with a 1/4 inch dowel and hammer. If you push the carrier
first the washer will then drop to the bottom and its difficult to get it to
rotate into place.
Kirby Vaughan
Sally or Dick Taylor:
John---I recall that this washer, or clip, looks like a star washer, but
its diameters must be exact to do the job. I'd vote for the ZS
replacement part, as shown in the catalogue.
These washers can scratch the bore when tapping them into (and out of)
place, so oiling the bore before hand is good to do. (We don't want a
scratch where we want sealing to take place)
E-mail message
John V wrote:
.....Can someone confirm whether that spring clip is just a normal
external toothed washer with a diameter slightly larger than the
diameter of the air valve shaft? I remember it looking pretty much like
one when I rebuilt my carbs a year ago. If it just a normal external
toothed washer, I can just pick two up at the hardware store instead of
ordering them (i.e., save some cash).
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