This evening I put an insulated washer between the screw that the yellow
black wire hooks onto and the body of the oil pressure sender, and the car
started. So it appears that you can ground out the sender wire and kill the
ignition, although I haven't figured out the connection between a ground
there and the ignition yet.
This is another one in a never ending series of ways to have problem and then
stumble on a fix for them.
Gary C
1966 1600
1968 2000 solex
In a message dated 4/4/02 5:55:08 AM Pacific Standard Time,
horne@cs.utexas.edu writes:
> Gary,
>
> According to the wiring diagram that I am looking at for 66/67 roadsters
> the wire that goes to the oil pressure sender is Yellow/black. That wire
> should come out of the harness and go to the oil sender on the lower edge
> of the block, just behind the alternator. This wire should no connect to
> anything else in the engine compartment. From your discription it seems
> that your is also connected to the points in the distributor, which
> shouyldn't be. The stock point wire is Black and should connect to
> the screw on the side of the distributor, go into the harness for a few
> inches and then connect to the - terminal on the coil. There is a
> Black/White wire on the + terminal of the coil that goes to the ballast
> resistor mounted under the coil. The other terminal on the ballast
> resistor should also be Black/White. With the key on you should have 12V
> at one end of the ballast resistor, and, depending on whether the points
> are open or closed, either 12V or about 6V on the other end.
>
> As for the oil sender, I am at work now and can't get to the car until
> this evening. The resistance of the sender is quite low as I recall. The
> gauge is current operated, which doesn't need a great swing in resistance
> to work.
>
> If you don't have a wiring diagram for your car you can find one on line
> at http://home.istar.ca/~datsun/wiring.htm and click on the diagram of
> choice.
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> Peace,
> Pat
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