datsun-roadsters
[Top] [All Lists]

RE: rust repaire

To: ROADSTER LIST <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: rust repaire
From: Andy Pal <apal@burstein.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 13:01:35 -0700
I have used a "rust repair" product (forgot which one) about 12 to 13 years
ago. All I remember
was it was in a spray can, and was turned black when sprayed onto the
surface.

One location that I treated was under the battery tray (sulphuric acid does
wonders to metal).

It is now about 12 years later, and it has not corroded one iota more. The
stuff did work
very well. This winter I will finally break down, cut it out and weld in a
new piece. I 
will treat the metal afterwards with one of these products prior to priming.

Technically, rust is oxidation. What these products do is first and
foremost they coat the surface and seal it from air and water (and battery
acid...).
Secondly the chemical "bonds" with a rusted metal particle (I'm not a
chemist, but
it is a specific bond).

Rust is the effect of 4 Iron atoms reacting with 3 oxygen atoms, creating
iron oxide (rust).

If you want to test the "rust repair" product before committing to it, I
would suggest the following:

1) Get some steel wool (uncoated, ie: not the soapy kind), and vinagar.
(Optional 2 thermometers)
2) Take one portion of steel wool, coat it with the rust inhibitor (let it
dry per instructions).
3) Put the untreat steel wool in a glass container (or old nasty coffee cup)
and immerse in vinagar.
4) Put the treated steel wool in another container (the other nasty coffee
sup) and immerse in vinagar.
5) If you use the 2 thermometers, wrap the steel wool samples around them
before immersing. You will
be able to see the reaction rates by the temperatures rising.

Hope that is helpfull.

A.

///  datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net mailing list
///  Archives at http://www.team.net/archive


<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>