Thanks for the information ~
I immediately went and pulled the rheostat to find that it is/was not hooked
up at all. Problem now is that I cannot see any misc wires (2x red blue)
waiting to be hooked up to it. I tested the rheostat, which seemed to
function properly, so I don't know why the switch was bypassed in the first
place by PO. All the wires currently on the headlamp switch are properly
wired per wiring diagrams, so there is a missing connection from the
green/white wire (#7 post on the switch) and the red/blue wire to the
instrument lighting. Per the diagram, all red/blue instrument lighting
should be wired together, so all I REALL need to do is create a jumper from
the #7 pin to one of the instrument red/blue wires and I should be set to
go. I will be taking some time to see if I can find the proper set of
existing wires to do this right, but I don't see spending too much time
ripping up the harness to find the culprit. Does this "fix" sound like it
will put me with some working dash lights?
As for the ammeter, I was under the understanding that it cannot be used
properly with the alternator conversion. It was disconnected by PO probably
due to all the electrical issues she THOUGHT she was having - turned out to
be a bad generator/regulator. So I updated, and bypassed that wiring -
everything seems to be getting along just fine now. :)
Robb Shannon - '66 1600
-----Original Message-----
From: Graeme [mailto:graemes@internode.on.net]
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2009 6:53 PM
To: 'speeddemonrs'; datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Roadsters] Instrument lighting
The dash illumination lamps are powered from pin 7 of the LIGHT switch.
The switch needs to be on of course.
However, the feed goes throug the DIMMER rheostat, so unless there is
continuity through it, the lamps will not get power.
This schematic will help you determine the problem.
http://tinyurl.com/59cokt
The DIMMER can be easily bridged out if you find it faulty [two RED/BLUE
wires], you will just have maximum brightness all the time.
Not sure why the ammeter is disconnected, but, if you don't want to use it
and your battery is getting charged OK, fair enough.
"I still cannot figure out what is wrong with the dash lighting though.
Looking under the dash the only wires that I see not connected are to the
Ammeter which, having recently completing the GM alternator conversion,
isn't needed anyway. So - is there some hidden fuse location or particular
connection that I should be checking?
1966 1600 SPL"
_
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