Agreed.
It's common for the outside of the spring to wear down against the
wall of the spring's tube, lowering spring rate and reducing oil
pressure.
On 9/29/10, Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com> wrote:
> And what if the spring is 50 years old, and has lost it's tension, and
> opens at 20 lbs?? And what if the valve isn't seating and sealing in
> the block??
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 29/09/2010, at 5:07 PM, "lists" <lists@brits-n-pieces.com> wrote:
>
>> But what if the spring has mistakenly been designed to open the
>> relief valve at 40psi (meaning it is too short, as mentioned by
>> someone else previously)? I'd say the washer would cure the problem.
>> What do you say?
>>
>> Eric
>>
>> You are absolutely correct!!
>> There is NO fallacy in your thinking.
>>
>> Michael Salter
>>
>> On Tue, Sep 28, 2010 at 11:42 AM, <healeymanjim@hansencc.net> wrote:
>>
>>> i am having trouble understanding how increasing the spring
>>> strength in the
>>> oil pressure relief valve will increase oil pressure. this spring is
>>> calibrated to keep the oil pressure in the engine to below aprrox
>>> 60 psi.
>>> when the oil is cold and the pressure is above that, the spring is
>>> compressed and excess oil returns to the sump. once the oil heats
>>> up enough
>>> to allow the pressure to decrease below 60 psi the relief valve
>>> closes,
>>> never to enter the equation again. increasing the spring strength
>>> would
>>> only cause the relief valve to come off the seat at a higher
>>> pressure, i.e.,
>>> 70 psi with cold oil. i cannot see where increasing the strength
>>> of the
>>> spring would do anything to increase the pressure of hot oil, say
>>> from 35 to
>>> 45 psi. where is the fallacy in my thinking? hjim
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