I prefer silicone brake fluid because it does not absorb water & it does not
affect paint & does not require frequent replacement. If you have an ingress of
water you already have a problem regardless of which fluid type you are using!
If the water separates out, like you describe, you could simply expel it by
bleeding the system. After you fix the source of the leak, of course.
Gary
Forget the silicone brake fluid (DOT 5) for normal use. If there is water
ingress it will separate out on the lower parts i.e. wheel cylinders and
can cause havoc. Use conventional DOT4 or 5.1 and replace every 2 years.
I replace my engine, gearbox and rear axle oil every year and at the same
time all other fluids: brake fluid and coolant (blue/green).
-----Original Message-----
From: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Jul 23, 2018 4:15 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake line
Stainless steel brake lines are not always recommended. Some claim the s-s
lines can fatigue crack. It is also hard to bend and flare.
Supposedly best are Cunifer brake lines. Marine grade material first used
in brake systems by Volvo in the 70?s I think. They are tough and do not
corrode like the steel lines do. They are fit and forget.
You can get complete made up sets, however they are usually packed in a
roll and you have to bend the pipes yourself, but the lines are cut to the
correct length, flares are already made up and the correct fittings
already fitted.. The bending can be done by hand easily but ideally you
need a bottle/pipe/tin/wheel/wood block with the right curve to prevent
kinking. If you are very careful all can be done free hand.
Copper lines are also offered, but generally not recommended as copper may
harden, get brittle and fatigue crack. Very easy to bend and make up
flares though.
Forget the silicone brake fluid (DOT 5) for normal use. If there is water
ingress it will separate out on the lower parts i.e. wheel cylinders and
can cause havoc. Use conventional DOT4 or 5.1 and replace every 2 years.
I replace my engine, gearbox and rear axle oil every year and at the same
time all other fluids: brake fluid and coolant (blue/green).
Kees Oudesluijs
Op 23-7-2018 om 08:20 schreef John Spaur:
Pipe bending is an art ?--and switch to stainless (If
you decide to use stainless steel be prepared for it. The
flaring tools are different! Single flares, you can succeed most of
the time but quality control is difficult. Double flares, maybe once
or twice if you are lucky until the tool breaks. The best advice it
don?t use SS unless you have the right tools or have a shop flare
the lines. You should also install copper cone washers between the
SS flare and the brake line seat. It prevents galling of the seat.
Oh? the washers are hard to find and hard to install; but you can
make them.)
I bent the SS lines for my BT7 and then had a local brake
wholesale supply shop flare the lines. I don?t recall what I paid
but it was not expensive and it was in and out the same day.
John Spaur
?62 BT7
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