Bob, I worked in aviation for 47 years and did a lot of safety wiring with
stainless safety wire. The secret is to not over twist the wire and make it
brittle. Your twists per inch look just right. For what it's worth.
Larry
'67 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Jul 23, 2018 2:15 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake line
Agree.? Anecdotally--I've only worked a bit with SS--I believe it to be
harder and more brittle than mild steel.? A couple of cases:
- when trying to get a gas-tight and permanent seal at the exhaust
manifold to downpipe flange, I tried some SS studs from Doug Reid.? They
seemed to snap off with less torque than the mild steel ones, which I
ended up using
- I was experimenting with safety wiring the set pins in my gearbox, and
tried mild steel wire instead of SS and the SS wire broke more easily than
the mild steel.? I used the SS anyway, as, well, it's good enough for the
FAA (see photo)
Bob
On 7/22/2018 11:20 PM, John Spaur wrote:
Pipe bending is an art ?--and switch to stainless (If
you decide to use stainless steel be prepared for it. The
flaring tools are different! Single flares, you can succeed most of
the time but quality control is difficult. Double flares, maybe once
or twice if you are lucky until the tool breaks. The best advice it
don?t use SS unless you have the right tools or have a shop flare
the lines. You should also install copper cone washers between the
SS flare and the brake line seat. It prevents galling of the seat.
Oh? the washers are hard to find and hard to install; but you can
make them.)
?
I bent the SS lines for my BT7 and then had a local brake
wholesale supply shop flare the lines. I don?t recall what I paid
but it was not expensive and it was in and out the same day.
?
John Spaur
?62 BT7
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