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Re: Re[4]: MGB Heater Removal

Subject: Re: Re[4]: MGB Heater Removal
From: Robert Allen <>
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 10:00:58 -0600
Oh, I don't know. Taking the heater core out may be a good idea if you want 
your heater to work well. And to take the heater core out you gotta disconnect 
some stuff from under the dash and through the vent ports on each side of the 
trans hump. Then you pull the whole heater box out and then you can easily get 
to the core.

When the heater was new, foam was wrapped around the core to prevent the air 
from going around the heater. That foam is likely to have turned to dust a long 
time ago. Also, dust, dirt, leaves, and junk may have clogged up the vanes in 
the heater core. Now the air must go around the core.

There is foam tape for use when putting a camper shell (cap) on a pickup truck 
that is about the right width and thickness for the sides of the heater core. 
And don't forget to cut a little foam to fit the core nipples coming out of the 
heater box.

I've thought the LBC heater works pretty well if the core is clear on both the 
inside and out and the air is channeled to actually go through the core. I 
always had to close my side vent in the Midget to keep the heat off my 
right shin. The SO thought the heater was just fine.

Bob Allen, Kansas City, '69MGC/GT, '75TR6 wrote:
>      Well, I thought I had to dive under the dash to disconnect the hoses
>      and such before I remove the heater box from the engine bay.  Don't I
>      have to remove the heater box to remove and service the core?
>      However, I think I might try your suggestion and flush/backflush the
>      core while it's still in the heater box.  It just makes more sense;
>      that way, I can hopefully get an idea of whether or not the core has a
>      problem before contorting myself or investing unnecessary time.  I
>      sometimes have an unexplainable tendency to want to tear things down
>      all the way, even if it's not entirely needed!
>      The water valve is OK, I just removed and checked that.  After reading
>      your message below, though, I suspect that the cable may not have been
>      adjusted correctly.
>      Thanks much for your help!
>      Michael Lytton
>      1970 MGB
> ______________________________ Reply Separator 
> Subject: RE: Re[2]: MGB Heater Removal
> Author:  "Jason F. Dutt" <> at Internet_Mail
> Date:    12/10/96 1:25 PM
>  Okay, now I have to ask a question.  Why are you diving under the dash?  
> sometimes we have to rely on a bit of contortionism, but not in this
> instance...well, probably not, anyway.  You can get under there to take off 
> hoses and check for clogging in the vent lines (leaves, etc.), although I 
> this is the case.
>  If you are getting a strong, well, as strong as can be expected, flow of air
> when you turn the fan on, the vent hoses are probably not clogged.  The 
> with lack of heat generation is a result of a clogged heater core, a bad water
> regulator (the little brass fixture into which goes the water feed to the
> heater, and a cable.  The cable goes to your temperature selector on the dash.
> The hotter you turn the knob, the more the regulator valve opens, allowing 
> water to flow through the core.), or a clog in either the block or one of the
> hoses, these of which being the least likely.
>  First, I'd flush and backflush the core (run water through it, from a garden
> hose, both ways, until it runs clear), hook it up, make sure the regulator 
> is open.  Do this manually if you have to.  The cable connecting to the dash
> control could be broken or stuck.  Turn the fan on, and see if you get warm.  
> not, there's probably some sort of mineral deposits clogging the core, at 
> partially.  I'm not sure, but this can probably be cleaned out with some sort 
> chemical.
>  If it works, make sure the regulator works freely, as well as the cable. The
> cable often seizes up to some extent.  If you have difficulty turning the knob
> on the dash, it's probably at least partially seized, therefore the valve 
> getting opened sufficiently.  Readjust the cable, if necessary.
>  If that doesn't work...well, you'd need to ask another lister, because then 
> be a bit stumped, and shy of saying that there's a clog in the engine block, 
> your car would probably run a bit hot if this was the case.
> Hope this helps,
> J
> ----------
> From:[]
> Sent:  Monday, December 09, 1996 6:14 PM
> To:  Jason F. Dutt;
> Subject:  Re[2]: MGB Heater Removal
>  > Just out of curiosity, what's wrong with your heater?  Does it leak?  Does 
> just not generate heat?
> Just doesn't generate heat.  Well, it generates a very feeble amount of heat.
>  > If you're doing the cooling system now, I'd definitely make sure the heater
> >core is in good order.  If it's clogged up with gunk, it'll send a bunch of
> >it into the rest of your cooling system, and...well, you get the picture.
> That's what I was thinking.  I'll think I'll just get a good flashlight, do a
> few stretching excercises, and dive under the dash.  Besides, how can I be an
> MG owner without a little contortion now and then? :^)
> Thanks for all your replies!
> Michael Lytton
> 1970 MGB

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