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Re: [oletrucks] IFS

To: Claude <cramey@dashlink.com>
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] IFS
From: Grant Galbraith <trks@javanet.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 21:33:12 -0400
I'm still using my straight axle, I drive it all over, and yes it does rides
like a truck. I do use  an after market sway bar, radial tires and it handles
very well. Just drove it to Bennington, Vt  show this past weekend from Ct.. I
can keep up with anyone on those roads, but they also know how to build roads
(banks) in Vermont. I got to say of all the shows I've been to I've never run to
as many friendly people who want to talk trucks. Camped in the Green Mt. Natl.
forest and saw my first close up moose in this trip, I'm sure no big deal to
many of you but a first for me.
Grant
50 Chevy 3100
52 GMC 150

Claude wrote:

> I was looking someday to convert to IFS but am undecided. I hate to chop off
> the front of the frame for all the reasons stated previously. But, while I
> like the thought of keeping the frame intact and welding/bolting on an IFS,
> I don't think I'd like having a rack & pinion with tubular A arms on my big
> ol' truck (not a strength issue). I want the GM A arms with the GM gear box
> and all the other GM stuff to go with it. I like the looks better and I just
> think that's what belongs on the TRUCK. But, I don't want to cut my frame. I
> am told that the Pacer thing does not work as easy on a '58-'59 (frame
> width). I guess I will be using the old straight axle for a while.
> While I'm on the subject of straight axle, Someone mentioned earlier they
> used 1/2" of toe-in. I have all the slack/play out of my steering (power
> steering conversion) and it drives pretty good. I've been meaning to try
> more toe-in for that straight ahead feel on the highway. This may be a good
> tip, haven't tried it yet.
>
> > > Oh, man... I'm probably going to get jumped on again but here goes.
> > >
> > > If you want to put a clip on your truck, I'm not going to tell you not
> to,
> > however there are a couple things you need to think about in the process.
> > >
> > > There is only one way to install a clip correctly and safely and there
> are
> > a thousand ways to screw it up.  If you feel you must destroy a perfectly
> > good frame just make sure your very meticulous about installing a new
> clip.
> > An experienced (certified) welder is a must in these cases and double and
> > triple check your alignment before everything's permanently welded in
> > position.
> > >
> > > In the street rod community it's generally considered that installing a
> > clip lowers the resale value of your vehicle.  It seems people just aren't
> > willing to pay top dollar and trust someone else's skills when something
> as
> > important as a frame is concerned.
> > >
> > > I hesitate to see what the advantages of installing a clip are anyway.
> > Exactly what are you getting with a clip that you can't get from the
> > aftermarket?  Disk brakes? They're available almost anywhere.  IFS?  Nope,
> > again available almost anywhere.  Ah, motor mounts.  Nope, a weld or bolt
> in
> > crossmember with Chevy mounts is readily available for about $60 from a
> > number of sources.  I know... ease of installation.  Nope, I don't think
> so.
> > So what is it then that makes people want to destroy a perfectly good
> frame?
> > I know, it must be the fun of hanging all that old sheet metal back on the
> > front once the clip is in place. That's got to be it, a chance for people
> to
> > show off their fabrication skills.
> > >
> > > Now don't jump on me guys... I was just trying to make a point here.
> > There's a lot to be considered before making a huge decision like lopping
> > off the front of your perfectly good frame.  People tend to think they're
> > going to save themselves a lot of work by doing this but in reality they
> > cause themselves as much work as they think they're saving.  There have
> been
> > thousands of clips welded on street rods and trucks and most of them are
> > very safe, all I'm saying is make sure that's what you want to do before
> > getting the sawsall out.  Once you cut it, there's really no turning back.
> > >
> > > OK, my fox hole is dug.... Incoming!!!!!
> > >
> > > Bill Whittaker
> > > '53 3100 Hemi
> > > Built Like A Rock
> > > With Mopar Stock
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Terry Beynon [mailto:tbeynon@dsl.telocity.com]
> > > Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2000 12:21 AM
> > > To: Old Trucks List
> > > Subject: [oletrucks] ifs or clip
> > >
> > >
> > > While the embers are still warm, I'll fan them to a flame. Did I miss
> > > something or did we blow right passed the welded front clip say from a
> 78
> > > Firebird or Camaro. In all the discussion of weld vs. bolt, it seems
> that
> > if
> > > a weld were to crack (with the clip) there's a chance you could see the
> > > whole front of your truck fall off??? The reason I bring it up is we
> used
> > > Heidt's MII on the 55. I was leaning to an old Camaro donor car to get
> the
> > > front clip, rear end (3.08 gear) and the tilt wheel. Do I cut the frame
> or
> > > not?
> > >
> > > Terry Beynon
> > > 55-1 3100
> > > 51 3106 (Suburban)
> > > Chicago IL
> > > www.beynon.net/terry.html
> > >
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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