I lifted my cab with a chain fall as many do. I am however afraid of tweaking
the top of the cab if lifted in the middle of the door opening. I now use a
home built fixture to lift across the opening in a wide area . I read on this
list that the 4 holes you may notice on the inside of the cab along the door
opening were factory lift points for the cab. Don't know this is the case for
sure. I have, however noticed on a cab that I lifted in the middle with one
sling has a wider space in the top center of the door to cab spacing. Not sure
if it was there before I lifted or not but I don't like to take chances.
Grant
50 Chevy 3100 (driven all over)
52 GMC 150 (original)
joe wrote:
> I don't think the cab will twist if the rotten parts are just in the corners
> where the mounts are located and the door opening to cab floor is solid.
>
> If it was me though, I would tack weld the doors to the cab just to be sure
> nothing moves, make the floor repairs and then cut the welds loose.
>
> Joe Garcia
> Yuba City, CA
> 1950 Chevrolet 3100
>
> http://chevy1.freeservers.com/
> http://50chevy.freeservers.com/
> http://1950Jeepster.freeservers.com/
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tom <tfvjr@snet.net>
> To: G. Simmons <gls@4link.net>
> Cc: oletrucks mailing list <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Date: Friday, October 20, 2000 8:01 AM
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Weight of a stripped down 1/2 ton cab
>
> >
> >Hi, Grant
> >Were you not concerned that the weight of the cab on the top of the door
> frames
> >would tweak something like the hinges or the door frames out of alignment?
> I am
> >about to lift my '55-2nd series cab from it's frame, and I am uncertain at
> this
> >point as to the BEST method. The only things left in it are the doors and
> the
> >glass. My cab has rotted out front cab mounts, and the rear cab mounts have
> >stress cracks in the surrounding floor sections from the cab 'rocking' back
> on
> >acceleration, so twisting of the remaining sheetmetal upon liftoff from the
> >frame seems like a potential problem for me... These are the options I am
> >considering:
> >
> > 1) Use two 2x6's through the windows (rope may be
> >good...) and 4 guys to lift and carry the cab to a jig, set up like the
> frame
> >rails on a dolly. (It may have to sit on it all winter!) Cost: $20.00 for
> >lumber, $20.00 for beer (every time I need help to move it!).
> >
> > 2) Buy a folding engine hoist for $200.00, and move
> the
> >cab whenever I want!!! (priceless!!!)
> >
> >Looks like a simple choice, once it's in writing! What do you guys think?
> Will
> >the cab twist? Is rope good enough? Is $20.00 worth of beer divided by 4
> too
> >cheap? Help me out!
> >
> >Tom Volpe
> >'55-2
> >Monroe, Ct.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >"G. Simmons" wrote:
> >
> >> >1. How many strong men/women will it take to lift off a stripped down
> >> >cab (ie. no gas tank, seats, or doors)??
> >>
> >> One. Just tie a rope through the windows, hook up the shop crane and
> start
> >> pumping. Comes right off.
> >>
> >> Regards,
> >>
> >> Grant S.
> >>
> >> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|