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Re: [oletrucks] AD door hinges

To: "Steve Andereggen Jr." <anderegs@e-machines.net>, oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] AD door hinges
From: Bob Fischer <bfischer@utm.net>
Date: Fri, 05 Jan 2001 15:06:08 -0800
Hi Steve,

(Hope this isn't too long and boring for the list)

 >Hi guys....I'm in the putting together stage of my truck and need to get
 >my hinges rebuilt.  I know where to get the parts and Golden State does
 >sell rebuilt hinges but $90 each is a bit too much for me.  Does anyone
 >know of another source to do this and how much.  I don't have the
 >propper tools to try it myself.

Good timing, I just rebuilt the left side (drivers)door hinges this past 
Wed/Thur on our 49. I ordered the hinge repair oversize pins 
w/bushings,  plus new springs from Chevy Duty. The drivers door obviously 
seeing the most opening and closing had really loose hinges, and I could no 
longer adjust the striker/latch to work reliably.

I didn't have any instructions, nor have I done this before, but the 
following is the procedure I used to repair the hinges. I have a drill 
press, with a table vise, however the hinge parts don't readily allow 
clamping with the required holes perpendicular to the quill on the drill 
press. I had to make this a morning job so I didn't want to take time to 
set up holding fixtures or whatever to enlarge the holes.

Getting the hinges out of the truck pockets and doors can be a problem, due 
to rust in my case. I used some pressurized liquid wrench type aerosol 
spray on the bolts best I could, several times, several days apart. Working 
slowly, loosening the bolts slightly, more spray, turn back in (tighten) 
slightly, back out, etc, eventually I got all the bolts out one at a time. 
I used a 3/8-24 tap to run thru the female portion threads, and wire 
brushed the bolts, added some white grease and reinstalled. Once I had all 
the bolts done, on Tuesday morning I removed the door, and removed the 
upper hinge. Getting the bolts out was child's play compared to the rusted 
hinge pins. I heated the portion of the hinge with the captive pin, let it 
cool, then some of the liquid wrench spray and let soak  while I scrounged 
up a short piece of tubing from a junk box to support the area around the 
pin head but allow the head to go thru. I chucked that in the vise, held 
the hinge with the pin head down centered in the tubing hole and used a 
large hammer and drift punch to get it moving out of the hinge. It moved 
about 3/4" this way, then appeared to stop. I used a fine tooth hacksaw and 
cut the head end off where it protruded from the hinge. More spray, then I 
drove it out completely the other direction. I cleaned the now separated 
hinge parts on a wire wheel.
Checking the new parts from Chevy Duty the pin is .340"dia and the "hat" 
shaped bushings are .417" outer dia with a .343"dia hole. The "hat" shaped 
bushings will fit inside the outer hinge with the shoulder seated against 
the inner portion, held captive by the center portion of the hinge.

I clamped the outer portion in the vise and started with a 3/8" (.375) bit 
in a drill motor to enlarge the two holes. Next I used a 25/64" (.3906) 
next a 13/32"(.406) and finally a 27/64" (.4219) The idea here being not to 
enlarge the holes all at once.  I used a small rat tail file and counter 
sink to chamfer the edges of the holes. I inserted the two bushings and 
tried the pin, which slid thru easily.

Next clamp the center portion of the hinge in the vise. This hole should be 
a tight or slight press fit holding  the new pin allowing the hinge to move 
within the two  bushings. I started with a 5/16"(.3125) bit, then 
21/64"(.328) and last a size "R" or .339" bit. I checked and the pin would 
not quite go into the hole I just enlarged with finger pressure, however it 
appeared a little pressure would force it into the hole. I coated the 
bushings and the pin with white grease and used a 1/2" socket against the 
bottom of the hinge assembly and inserted it into the widely opened jaws of 
the vise. Now I gently turned the handle to press the pin thru.  Don't push 
the pin in too far or the serrated portion under the pin head will seat in 
the bushing and try to make the bushing turn in the outer hinge. We want 
the pin held captive in the center portion allowing rotation of the outer 
part on the axis of the pin.
Next, one at a time, I used the vise to squeeze the new horse shoe shaped 
springs slightly and forced the loose end into the elongated slot with a 
wide blade screw driver.
A quick shot of red oxide rattle can primer, let it almost dry and put it 
back in the door. I pick up my wife at work at 1:15 each day so I put the 
door back in and away I went. The next morning, Thursday, I did the same 
with the lower hinge, except there are no springs to install. The pin came 
out much easier on this one, but I had to take more time when done to 
correctly realign the door, since I don't intend to be removing it soon again.
Hope this helps anyone contemplating this project. It sure tightened up the 
door, and the new springs really work great holding the door open.


"Nothin lasts forever except old Fords and a natural stone" - Willie Nelson

http://home.utm.net/bfischer
e-mail - bfischer@utm.net  or  robert.f.fischer.jr@syntegra.com
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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