Bob,
Thanks for taking the time to post this. My truck doesn't need the hinges
done yet, but I am adding your post to the manual I am slowly making from
postings to this list. Good stuff!
Dave Camp
49 3600
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Fischer" <bfischer@utm.net>
To: "Steve Andereggen Jr." <anderegs@e-machines.net>;
<oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 05, 2001 6:06 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] AD door hinges
> Hi Steve,
>
> (Hope this isn't too long and boring for the list)
>
> >Hi guys....I'm in the putting together stage of my truck and need to get
> >my hinges rebuilt. I know where to get the parts and Golden State does
> >sell rebuilt hinges but $90 each is a bit too much for me. Does anyone
> >know of another source to do this and how much. I don't have the
> >propper tools to try it myself.
>
> Good timing, I just rebuilt the left side (drivers)door hinges this past
> Wed/Thur on our 49. I ordered the hinge repair oversize pins
> w/bushings, plus new springs from Chevy Duty. The drivers door obviously
> seeing the most opening and closing had really loose hinges, and I could
no
> longer adjust the striker/latch to work reliably.
>
> I didn't have any instructions, nor have I done this before, but the
> following is the procedure I used to repair the hinges. I have a drill
> press, with a table vise, however the hinge parts don't readily allow
> clamping with the required holes perpendicular to the quill on the drill
> press. I had to make this a morning job so I didn't want to take time to
> set up holding fixtures or whatever to enlarge the holes.
>
> Getting the hinges out of the truck pockets and doors can be a problem,
due
> to rust in my case. I used some pressurized liquid wrench type aerosol
> spray on the bolts best I could, several times, several days apart.
Working
> slowly, loosening the bolts slightly, more spray, turn back in (tighten)
> slightly, back out, etc, eventually I got all the bolts out one at a time.
> I used a 3/8-24 tap to run thru the female portion threads, and wire
> brushed the bolts, added some white grease and reinstalled. Once I had all
> the bolts done, on Tuesday morning I removed the door, and removed the
> upper hinge. Getting the bolts out was child's play compared to the rusted
> hinge pins. I heated the portion of the hinge with the captive pin, let it
> cool, then some of the liquid wrench spray and let soak while I scrounged
> up a short piece of tubing from a junk box to support the area around the
> pin head but allow the head to go thru. I chucked that in the vise, held
> the hinge with the pin head down centered in the tubing hole and used a
> large hammer and drift punch to get it moving out of the hinge. It moved
> about 3/4" this way, then appeared to stop. I used a fine tooth hacksaw
and
> cut the head end off where it protruded from the hinge. More spray, then I
> drove it out completely the other direction. I cleaned the now separated
> hinge parts on a wire wheel.
> Checking the new parts from Chevy Duty the pin is .340"dia and the "hat"
> shaped bushings are .417" outer dia with a .343"dia hole. The "hat" shaped
> bushings will fit inside the outer hinge with the shoulder seated against
> the inner portion, held captive by the center portion of the hinge.
>
> I clamped the outer portion in the vise and started with a 3/8" (.375) bit
> in a drill motor to enlarge the two holes. Next I used a 25/64" (.3906)
> next a 13/32"(.406) and finally a 27/64" (.4219) The idea here being not
to
> enlarge the holes all at once. I used a small rat tail file and counter
> sink to chamfer the edges of the holes. I inserted the two bushings and
> tried the pin, which slid thru easily.
>
> Next clamp the center portion of the hinge in the vise. This hole should
be
> a tight or slight press fit holding the new pin allowing the hinge to
move
> within the two bushings. I started with a 5/16"(.3125) bit, then
> 21/64"(.328) and last a size "R" or .339" bit. I checked and the pin would
> not quite go into the hole I just enlarged with finger pressure, however
it
> appeared a little pressure would force it into the hole. I coated the
> bushings and the pin with white grease and used a 1/2" socket against the
> bottom of the hinge assembly and inserted it into the widely opened jaws
of
> the vise. Now I gently turned the handle to press the pin thru. Don't
push
> the pin in too far or the serrated portion under the pin head will seat in
> the bushing and try to make the bushing turn in the outer hinge. We want
> the pin held captive in the center portion allowing rotation of the outer
> part on the axis of the pin.
> Next, one at a time, I used the vise to squeeze the new horse shoe shaped
> springs slightly and forced the loose end into the elongated slot with a
> wide blade screw driver.
> A quick shot of red oxide rattle can primer, let it almost dry and put it
> back in the door. I pick up my wife at work at 1:15 each day so I put the
> door back in and away I went. The next morning, Thursday, I did the same
> with the lower hinge, except there are no springs to install. The pin came
> out much easier on this one, but I had to take more time when done to
> correctly realign the door, since I don't intend to be removing it soon
again.
> Hope this helps anyone contemplating this project. It sure tightened up
the
> door, and the new springs really work great holding the door open.
>
>
> "Nothin lasts forever except old Fords and a natural stone" - Willie
Nelson
>
> http://home.utm.net/bfischer
> e-mail - bfischer@utm.net or robert.f.fischer.jr@syntegra.com
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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