You did not mention if you are running a stock, single master, or a
converted system. In any event, the shooting up of brake fluid is normal
for the stock master as well as for a non-booster, dual, drum-drum set up
(and many boosted drum disk setups). You can either leave the cap on while
you're pumping the pedal, or go slowly so you don't make a mess. Wayne is
correct that you will save some time to bench bleed the master prior to
installation, however it can still be accomplished mounted in the truck (if
mounted in the truck, tighten all bleeder screws and pump the pedal slowly
many times to get things going - if it doesn't work, remove the line(s) from
the master and put your finger over the outlet(s) when releasing the pedal -
it's going to be messy under there). You also did not mention how you are
bleeding the brakes. If you're using a Mityvac (sp?), it's not recommended
for master cylinders installed at the same level as the wheels - you might
be pulling in air from the WCs or bleeder screw. In any event, once the
master is primed, it should all be very easy.
Good luck!
Allen in Seattle
'50 3100
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne Osborne" <wayne@chevytrucks.org>
To: "Jhouse" <jhouse@ccsol.com>; <LonG4VT@aol.com>;
<oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 26, 2002 6:58 AM
Subject: RE: [oletrucks] 1950 1/2 ton brakes question
> If a new master cylinder was put and if it is not bench bled first, it'll
> take forever to bleed the entire system. Always bleed the system starting
> at the farthest wheel cylinder first--do the right rear first, then left
> rear, right front, then left front. I just went through my brake system
> and man what a difference all new parts makes. --wayne
>
>
> At 09:11 AM 4/26/02 -0400, Jhouse wrote:
> >Lon,
> >I have rebuilt my own brakes (MC and all WC) and have had EXACTLY the
same
> >spit up problem. You are pushing down on the break pedal way to hard. It
is
> >a very very very soft push down and with luck this will then let bubbles
up
> >from the MC. Keep the cap off and keep the reserve almost FULL. It took
me
> >some time to get the air out of the MC but once it was out it all seems
to
> >work. Is the truck on a VERY LEVEL SURFACE - it should be. However if I
do
> >not drive the truck for a week or so I need to pump up the break to get
> >pressure back into the system. I never asked the list if this was an
issue.
> >
> >NHJim
> >45 Chevy 3104
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net
> >[mailto:owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of LonG4VT@aol.com
> >Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002 8:02 PM
> >To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
> >Subject: [oletrucks] 1950 1/2 ton brakes question
> >
> >
> >I worked on my brakes yesterday and could not get them to hold pressure.
I
> >would pump the brake and get good peddle, then I would let off for 2 or 3
> >seconds and it would go right to the floor. We bled all the lines and
they
> >seem fine. My question is this; when I remove the fill cap on the master
> >cylinder and push the peddle down, fluid comes shooting up from the
cylinder
> >into the reservoir. Is this normal or do I have a bad master cylinder?
Did
> >I not bleed it right or am I missing a trick that only ole' time truckers
> >know? Any help would be great!
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Lon
> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> Wayne Osborne
> 1956 Chevy Pickup
> LaGrange Ga.
> http://www.chevytrucks.org
> http://www.chevytrucks.org/wayne
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|