fred thomas wrote:
>
> Brian Furgalus wrote:
> >
> > Well, folks, here I go again. This week I will hopefully be going to go
>look
> > at two Spitfires, one a '75, the other an '80. Both owners have told me
>that
> > the cars are rust-free, and are in VGC. The '75 is yellow, has 65K miles,
>and
> > was repainted three years ago. The rear bumper infill piece and two
> > overriders have been removed as well. Interior is said to be good as well.
> I
> > asked on a scale of 1-10, he gave it a seven. On to the '80. The '80 is
>Red,
> > origional paint. The interior is the original Tan Hounstooth, in good
> > condition. The car has 35K miles on it(!), and has O/D. I'd be inclined to
> > go with the '80, if not for anything but the O/D. The only drawback? He's
> > asking $4,000, which I personally think is a tad steep for a Spitfire,
> > especially at this time of year. Not to mention my budget precludes any car
> > much over $3,000! :) The '75 is $3,200. SO... any ideas on how to get the
> > '80's price down? Is that a fair market value? I've been told that $3,000
> > TOPS for a nice Spitfire. Hope to hear from you guys soon, I may go see it
>as
> > soon as tomorrow!
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Brian Furgalus
> > mowog@usa.net
>
> Brian, I can't tell you how or how not to buy, but, you are exactly
> correct when you think 4K is high. Is it needs nothing and I mean
> nothing, then 4K is close to being in line. You must remember anything
> you have to spend you add to the 4K, and this means the smallest items,
> which add-up very fast from 4 to 6500, so see how much trouble your
> budget can be down the road. It is not just the price you pay today, but,
> tomorrow's price you need to keep a close look at. Here are the most
> important questions you need "GOOD" answers for =
> # 1 = how long have you owned it and where did you get it
> # 2 = how much work have "you" done to it
> # 3 = documentation for all work = no he said/she said
> # 4 = local car or not
> # 5 = why are you selling it
> # 1 is very, very important
> Look under both sides of car front floor mats for rust
> look in the entire trunk area for rust
> look under car at the frame and shck towers for rust
> look for and fiber glass filler
> If this person is just selling it and a recent purchase you get the H#$%@
> out of there.
> Talk to the previous owner or don't buy. His/her name must be on the
> title and be sure to check the title transfer dates for truthfullness.
> I had a used car lot for 25 + years if any of this posting seems familiar
Brian,
Fred's advice is outstanding on this topic. I would add to check the
exhaust manifold for any cracks! This is a weak spot on most '80 Spits
that I have been around.
When I bought both of my '80 Spits I looked at around 50 potential
ones. Twenty of these were red! Of these, only two were actually
originally red from the factory! Be sure. If the car is truly a rust
free stand up car with overdrive and a real red one then the price is
probably close to being right - especially if it comes with the optional
hardtop!
Without the hardtop (which I have never used but it does look good in my
garage), leaking exhaust, poor tires, weak interior, any rust, missing
parts, weak clutch, tired brakes, etc., that $4,000 price drops pretty
quick! Check it over real close - and then check again! Follow Fred's
advice to the letter! Be sure to note that chrome bumpers might look
better than those big black ones that I'm so fond of on my cars - this
is probably a good point to talk a potential seller down on! Most folks
prefer the chrome!!!
Try to find the best possible car with overdrive that you can afford.
Good luck in your search!
Regards,
Ron Fowler
'80 Inca Yellow Spitfire with Overdrive (and big black bumpers!)
'80 Platinum TR8 and four other wedges without V8 power!
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