You said quick, so hopefully this will get you started.
I think this is the procedure:
1) remove the valve cover gasket
2) be sure to remove the battery or coil wire so that you can't crank the
engine :)
3) your choice to whether you want to remove the spark plugs. It makes
turning the engine much easier
4) turn the engine until the spring to be guaged is fully extended.
5) measure the gap between the plate on the top of the spring and ? (my
memory now fails).
I don't remember the gap settings. I used a plain fingered depth guage.
I don't think there is any specific order to guage them. Exhaust valves
are above the exaust outlets.
Kevin
>>> Bowen, Patrick A. RP2 <jak0pab@jak10.med.navy.mil> 01/25/99
11:54am >>>
Can someone quickly explain how to check my valve gaps, correctly and
which
feeler gauge to use?
Thanks
Patrick
At 06:30 AM 1/25/99 -0600, Craig Smith wrote:
>I had a revelation Sunday, I haven't had my rebuilt engine running very
>long and got to thinking .
>I had the head shaved .020 and reinstalled it but didn't think about the
>valve rocker gap settings. I was trying to time it and couldn't get it
>to run anywhere close to 10 degrees. I was resolved that it would be
25
>to 30 forever. I set the valve gaps and behold !!! 10, 8, and even six
>was possible. The reason it wouldn't time even close to 10 was the
>valves weren't closing and it was backfiring through the carb. Once I
>got the valves set everything was fine.
>Try that, you never know.
>
>> -Craig Smith
>> -800/692-2323 ext. 2105
>> -fax 864/234-1020
>> -craigs@iewc.com
>-
Patrick Bowen
'79 Spitfire
Jacksonville FL
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