Craig- I didn't have any trouble at all bleeding the line after the slave
was rebuilt. I also remember that there's a wrinkled sleeve inside of the
throw-out arm that keeps the arm from torquing under load, it's kind of like
a cylindrical wave washer, that holds the pivot pin in the arm. If this was
worn, the aluminum arm
can wear out also. Another thought, we lost the clutch at the beginning of
last season after only about 2 1/2 hours of running- due to using a sintered
bronze clutch disc (too high-tech for an LBC). When we got a replacement kit
(disc, pressure plate, and T/O bearing) and assembled it, the clutch was
IMPOSSIBLE to depress- the kit was unusable for a 1300. The store swore up
and down it was right, and we must have installed it incorrectly. The
problem was that the friction surface of the pressure plate was too thick-
it wouldn't let the disc free under any circumstances. To make a long story
longer, sometimes no matter how well you do your work, as long as you trust
vendors to give you the correct parts, you're at their mercy.- I know this
is no consolation, but let me know how it works out, and if you want to know
where we finally found the correct parts, just ask.
Mark Haynes
'65 Spit RMVR#162
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Craig Smith [SMTP:CraigS@iewc.com]
> Sent: Thursday, April 08, 1999 9:44 AM
> To: 'Haynes, Mark'; Craig Smith; 'Spit list'
> Subject: RE: %$#&*@( Hydraulic Clutches
>
> Yes I did, it was fine, the car only had 50k on it when I started this
> project. The arm does move about 3/8" before the slack gets out of it.
> That's why I moved the slave in some to take up that slack. I just don't
> have the hard firmness I need to operate the pressure plate.
> How hard is it to get all the air out of the loop on the line ?
> I have used a vacuum pump to bleed the system as well as the old tried and
> true way.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Haynes, Mark [mailto:mhaynes@ball.com]
> Sent: Thursday, April 08, 1999 10:26 AM
> To: 'Craig Smith'
> Subject: RE: %$#&*@( Hydraulic Clutches
>
>
> Craig- did you check the Throw-out arm pivot bushes in the bell housing?-
> I
> know when we went through the clutch, etc. on our 1300, I found them very
> worn out, and when I ordered a set from TRF(?)- They said they hadn't sold
> a
> set in many years. They install very easily once the throw-out arm is
> out.If
> your pivot pin is something other than just a pin with a full radius on
> the
> end, it isn't standard.
> just a thought -doesn't mean I'm right
> Mark Haynes
> '65 Spit=RMVR#162
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Craig Smith [SMTP:CraigS@iewc.com]
> > Sent: Thursday, April 08, 1999 7:18 AM
> > To: 'Spit list'
> > Subject: %$#&*@( Hydraulic Clutches
> >
> >
> > I am about to go frickin nuts over this clutch master cylinder.
> > I have bought two rebuild kits, polished the inside of the cylinder so
> > well
> > that I can use it as a flashlight, and the damn thing still won't
> release
> > the clutch !
> > I need some help!!!!
> >
> > I get a some pedal, enough where it's hard to push with your hand while
> > sitting on the ground to bleed the slave. It just isn't enough to push
> the
> > pressure plate in enough to release the plate.
> >
> > I have ALL new parts in the clutch. So I know it's not the problem.
> >
> > I can get it to release but I have to apply air pressure to the top of
> the
> > master to get the fluid in the system. It will operate for a bit but
> over
> > night it looses that little extra pressure. I have no leaks, I even
> moved
> > the slave in a little with the help of a bench engineered pinch bolt ( I
> > ground off one side of the bolt ).
> >
> > I have bled this damn thing over and over and I can't seem to win.
> >
> > I have sent this thread before and got some real good ideas but I need
> > something else, a VOODOO curse, an Herb to rub on it or a faith healer !
> >
> > Craig Smith
> >
> >
> > Craig Smith
> > Phone 800/692-2323
> > Fax 864/234-1020
> > craigs@iewc.com
> > <<...>>
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