I've done a few cars/trucks in enamel and they turn out okay, but they
always look like enamel. That is, the paint is glossy and soft. It's more
prone to damage and you have to wait a good long time before you can wax
it. Enamel has the advantage of being what you see is what you get. Once
you strip the masking tape and paper off the car, let it sit for a day or
so and you're up and running. It does suffer more from flashover (the
thinner evaporating too fast and resulting in flat spots) and you need to
spray it on heavy / wet enough that you stand a much greater chance of
runs. The use of a HVLP should avoid a lot of the problems though.
Lacquer was the standard for so many years. It's very easy to spray, and
you can keep laying on the coats to get a nice even coat that you can then
color wetsand for that incredible depth to the color. It also is more
volatile for the solvents (nasty!) and it can't be applied over other types
of paints except lacquer without crazing and other special effects.
Base coat clear coat is really the most popular solution now since you can
spray on your base coat and it just needs to contain color. The clear coat
will give you the gloss. This system works great with HVLP and will likely
be what I'll do myself soon.
If you do the enamel, you can get good results, especially if you are doing
panel by panel since there is less chance of color variation between paint
shots that you can get with lacquer.
Every method and type has its own advantages and disadvantages. Just make
sure you decide what you want to do before you ever start applying primer.
________________________________________________________________________
| | 1968 Triumph Spitfire Mk III * Furry Artist |
| Flinthoof |--------------------------------------------------------|
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| Dan |--------------------------------------------------------|
| Canaan | ConiFur NorthWest 2001 - Furries in Seattle! |
| |--------------------------------------------------------|
| CONIFUR NW | Flinters@picarefy.com * http://jarmac.picarefy.com |
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