Hi Tom,
2 years ago, a fellow at the PIR historic races who was racing a Mallock,
broke an axle. Because the long axle was the same as a Morris axle, he was
brought over to my place to buy an one. Sold him it and he was back racing.
I asked later how long it lasted and he said 4 1/2 races, but he placed 1st
on two of the races!
This year I saw him at the races and asked what he was doing to prevent axle
breakages. He too, used the double row bearing hubs, but with an added
twist. He was breaking too many race axles so he had some special high
strength axles made with splines on each end, splined a special hub cap (not
the ornamental ones!) and used an axle that floated a bit on this setup. I
asked how he kept oil in there and he pointed to another special cap seal
that covered the axle end that sealed in the oil.
He effectively turned the rear axle setup from a 3/4 floating type into a
full floating type by doing this. He's delighted with this and has not
broken an axle yet with the new setup. 2 litre twin cam Ford churning out
185 HP powered car. Will be at PIR again, the weekend of Labor day Monday.
Later, Paul A
----- Original Message -----
From Tom Speed <tspeed at carolina.rr.com>
To: <GMGoodman@aol.com>
Cc: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2003 3:05 PM
Subject: RE: Axle HELP
> Jerry,
> When we set up a Spridget to go racing, one of the first
> modifications to the rear axle housing is to replace the rear hubs with
> special double bearing hubs. The majority of broken axles are the result
> of one of three things. The first is inferior axles. The strongest axles
> carry the marking "BTA 806" on the outside bell section. Anything older
> are junk. They started showing up in the early seventies Spridgets.
> The second cause is moving an axle from one side of the car to
> the other. The axles, over time, start to twist at the inboard splines.
> When that stress is reversed, they break.
> The third cause of broken axles is due to the design of the rear
> hub. The rear bearing provides the location of the hub. As the hubs and
> bearings wear, they allow the hub to move and put a stress on the
> outside bell area. We fit special "Double Bearing Hubs" to replace the
> single bearing and that eliminates the flex movement.
> With that setup, we use BTA 806 axles and have not needed to buy
> the "racing axles".
>
> Regards,
>
> Tom Speed
> www.MGRacer.com
> '76 Midget (Son's Restored Driver)
> '66 Midget SCCA Racer (SpeedRacer)
> '84 Chevy S-10 (Tows SpeedRacer)
> '98 Eclipse Spyder (Wife's Driver)
> '98 Chrysler Town & Country Lowered Floor Conversion Van (Tows Me)
>
>
>
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> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-spridgets-mod@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-spridgets-mod@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> GMGoodman@aol.com
> Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2003 10:49 AM
> To: spridgets@autox.team.net
> Subject: Axle HELP
>
> My choices are new, used, new competition. I have looked at Mini Mania
> sight in search of axles which will not break, not that I'll be racing
> but...I really only want to do this once...looks like $300 each...will
> need 2 if I do that...or replace one side new from VB or Moss
> $200...or just get a used one , under $50 and cross my fingers....on
> the used is it important that it came from the same side as I am
> replacing?
>
> Jerry Goodman
> 59 BE
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