> Charlie, see if you agree with me here. One way to determine if it were
> hydraulic or mechanical would be to carefully loosen the two bolts that
> hold the bracket for the slave cylinder to the bellhousing (or perhaps
> just the one bolt that holds the slave into its bracket). Either way, if
> the slave cylinder "shoots" off towards the rear of the car, perhaps it or
> the master did jam up somehow. If the clutch is still disengaged, your
> problem is in there somewhere. It seems more likely to me that it is a
> clutch or linkage problem as Charlie suggested.
> Andy,
That would definately provide instant diagnosis without pulling the
tranny. I just responded to Kevin, after he confirmed his clutch would
not disengage after the pedal went limp. I recommemded the when he got
the tranny cover off, to see if re-bleeding the hydraulics could get any
brake fluid out the bleeder, making sure a leak hadn't caused a huge air
pocket.
Barring that, my money's on the pin and tension sleeve at the pivot end
of the throw-out arm. As I'm sure you know, OEM pins relied only on the
tension sleeve to hold the whole assembly in place. If that thing's slid
partially, or all the way out, there would be no return resistance on the
pedal. If it's not the hydraulics, it's time to pull the tranny and look
in the bell housing.
I'm sure Kevin will appreciate your suggestion for diagnosis.
Thanks,
Charlie
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