Art,
What the heck I'll whack this horse a few more times....
I don't think anyone so far has disagreed that the goal is to try to achieve the
"design" viscosity of 20wt. oil so that the dampers perform as intended. So
you're right when you say,
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"... and replenish the dashpots with thin engine oil, grade SAE 20 (but no
thicker than SAE 30)..." AND
The designers built the carbs to operate
with the viscosity named above.
I'd have to see some solid evidence regarding peformance to change to some other
viscosity.
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The question is HOW to achieve that goal of having the "design" viscosity of
20wt oil, not whether it should be a different viscosity. And more importantly
how to achieve that goal under hot and cold air temperatures.
I would guess that no one would argue that 20 wt. oil does not have the same
viscosity at all air temperatures, especially in hot or cold (any TR owners in
Alaska want to chime in here?).
So the question the list has posed is, what oil or other fluid (or fluif if you
have in the right viscosity) to use to achieve the "viscosity goal" when the
temperatures are hotter or colder.
So far we've seen everything suggested except an LBC catch-pan-solution of
combined fluids that leak from the radiator, washer tank, clutch, brakes,
engine, gearbox, differential, gas tank, and whatever you might have in the
trunk that spilled. Wonder what the viscosity would be??? Salute!!
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Methinks we make too big a deal about this.
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Only if you've had 34 years of not having the problem.
Bud 71TR6 CC57365
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