In a message dated 98-09-16 16:48:47 EDT, you write:
> I would guess that no one would argue that 20 wt. oil does not have the same
> viscosity at all air temperatures, especially in hot or cold (any TR owners
> in Alaska want to chime in here?).
However, when the engine is at operating temp and the bonnet is closed, I'll
bet that the temp inside the engine compartment is pretty much the same year
round. the carbs sit right on the engine block so there are not too much
cooling (or heating) variations. The air coming in through the air cleaners
is not being sucked over the dampers. The dampers are sitting in the ambiant
temperature of the engine compartment.
> So the question the list has posed is, what oil or other fluid (or fluif if
> you
> have in the right viscosity) to use to achieve the "viscosity goal" when
the
> temperatures are hotter or colder.
Agree. I just don't think that the variations in temp are enough to really
affect the viscosity.
> So far we've seen everything suggested except an LBC catch-pan-solution of
> combined fluids that leak from the radiator, washer tank, clutch, brakes,
> engine, gearbox, differential, gas tank, and whatever you might have in the
> trunk that spilled. Wonder what the viscosity would be??? Salute!!
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
>> Methinks we make too big a deal about this.
> -------------------------------------
>
> Only if you've had 34 years of not having the problem.
Right. And my car has lived in the UK, France, Germany, Italy, the Eastern
US, South Texas, New Mexico (at 5000 ft.), California and Florida. Also two
cross US trips - one in Winter (1968) and one in Summer. Never a problem -
granted the carbs were properly adjusted. But the 20W damper oil never caused
a problem of which I was/am aware. So my point is that the SAE 20 oil does
the job, even with the temp variations. In other words, the viscosity should
it vary, will not vary enough to cause a problem.
> Bud 71TR6 CC57365
Art Kelly
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