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Re: Painting TR4

To: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: Painting TR4
From: Gerhard.Wiederholl@t-online.de (Gerhard Wiederholl)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 15:31:25 +0200
References: <199809201814.TAA24043@cadmus.hosts.netdirect.net.uk>
Hello,

Iīm sure the old stuff used by TRIUMPH between wings and body works but one 
should consider to use some of the new materials now availible. 

As far as I found out the sealing should:

1. Seal metal overlaps against water. Not only against splash water but against 
water found in a gap between two sheet metals bolted together because of the 
capillary effect. If you donīt do anything against it there will always be 
water 
as soon as your car gets wet and it will stay longer there than anywhere else. 
This is a good starting point for rust.

2. It should be possible to paint over it.

3. It shouldnīt get hard with time. All bitumen based materials get hard with 
time, crack and make way for water. Thatīs right the thing we donīt want. 

4. Wings/body parts should  be easy  to remove even after some years. 

At car parts supplyers you can find the right thing which is called "sealing 
band" like the stuff from Teroson and others. I used it on my TR 6. Itīs a 2 X 
20 mm slightly tacky sealing compond. You put it between wing and body any 
places where the two touch each other. If someone wants to see a photo.jpg  how 
this looks on a inner wing of my TR 6 just before the wing comes on give me an 
email.

For other sheet metal gaps like floor panel to sill one can use a paintable 
polyurethane sealing compound .

Gerhard, 
1969 TR 6 
1976 Triumph Tiger 750


The last thing:

Why does M.L. keep her mouth firmly closed...???????

Rumours say she is hiding evidence !


jonmac schrieb:
>
> > > it) Blackjack and just the sort of thing not to get near a pair of
> white
> > > cricket flannels or a bride's dress. 
> > 
> > What color is it?  I'm assuming black, but I came across a lot of orange
> > bubbly not-too-flexible-any-more type of stuff in many joints.  I'm
> pretty
> > sure it was reddish-orange, and was also under the (original) signal red
> > paint.
>  
> Yes, orange was one colour. The name blackjack comes from the same sort of
> product they used pre 1939 and the name just stuck (no pun.)
>
> > > During body assembly, the facing surfaces on body joins were daubed
> with Blackjack and then as the surfaces 'kissed' and were tighted in place,
> > > there was a certain amount of ooze from displaced blackjack.
> > 
> > Was it used for every single join (spot-weld...?) or just the ones the
> end
> > user would see?
>
> Sorry, a bit knackered when I wrote the above. To clarify, it was applied
> where surfaces were mated with fasteners or over spot welds in areas where
> water spray from wheelhouses and chassis deflection points was likely to
> find its way in. Never used as a sandwich on spot welds 'cos there would be
> no electrical path and the weld wouldn't work.
>
> > The inside of the trunk of our 83 Oldsmobile seems to have a sort of
> > plasticy compound.  I don't know where I can get it- but I bet I could
> > find out next time I'm near a body shop / paint store.
>
> Sounds like the same sort of thing
>
> > I've used roof patch compound, which is about the consistency of
> > toothpaste (though not as tasty), and has a lot of asphalt and fibrous
> > stuff in it.  It works well as a temporary measure, for holes that I
> don't
> > want to fix, I also swim a bit of zinc stripping (also used on roofs, to
> > eliminate moss), cut to fit, and glued in.
> > It hardens in a month or more.  It does seem to get a bit brittle, but
> > only if you use far too much- I try to keep it thin and out of the
> > weather- and haven't had any trouble now.
> > FWIW it also seems to take paint, but I will have to wait and see if
> > there's any cracking or bleed-through or other nasties.
>
> The other thing you could use is an epoxy resin putty - there are various
> types on the market. Once its mixed, you roll it into shapes like playdough
> and kneed it into small crevices, then smooth it over. This stuff cures
> fully in about 3 hours or less and it's brilliant. Could be expensive and
> sets steel hard. BUT - once it has SET, it HAS set. I've seen it used to
> stop leaks from fuel tanks and IMHO its every bit as good as welding. I
> suppose we're now getting into sledgehammer and nut country but as a last
> resort.............?
>
> jonmac

ÐÏāĄą





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