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Malcolm,
you can purchase a wire welder from harbor freight (www.harborfreight.com) for
around $199.00. I picked up a spool of flux core wire (9mm) for $4.62 from Home
Depot. I am using it on my TR3's new floor pans, I have had very good luck with
clean welds, just make sure that the surfaces are clean and line up.
Happy welding.
Malcolm Walker wrote:
> On Sun, 26 Sep 1999, D. Michael Scott wrote:
>
> > I have never welded before and I'm sure there will be plenty
> > of grinding for me. Just looking for the simplest way to get into some
> > effective body
> > repair welding without a big investment. I was told one drawback is that the
> > fluxcore wire for the gasless mig costs a lot more. Anyway, I hope to be a
> > flamethrower soon too!
>
> If you're on a tight budget, look into a oxy-acetylene welding kit too.
> It costs more than the "buzz-box" type stick welder, but is *far* more
> useful.
>
> You do not need a cutting torch attachment, just the tanks, a good torch,
> some check valves, etc.
>
> The local been-around-since-Noah's-time welding store had a kit for just
> under $300 that had everything- hoses, regulators, tips, and 2 little
> tanks. The beauty of these kits is that you can easily (to a degree...)
> swap the tanks for larger ones.
>
> I started with an MC sized acetylene tank (cost $50), which is marginally
> larger than the disposable propane tanks at 10 cuft. I now have a B size
> (40 cuft) and it's great. A bit heavy, mind you- I would not go any
> larger (I live on a hill and don't want the tanks to fall over)
>
> It's really great for undoing stuck bolts- I snapped one of the 1/4"
> seat-frame-to-floor bolts- for the other three I soaked the carpet with
> water and heated the bolt cherry red (until the carpet stopped steaming).
> They all undid without any fuss.
>
> Sheet metal work with oxy-acetylene welding is not that difficult, but it
> takes a LONG time and LOTS of practice to get it right. I am seriously
> contemplating the removal of my hard-won fender to fix up the first welds
> I did on the car.
>
> However- once you get good at gas welding, you don't need to grind it. If
> you get really good you can weld a bit then take a hammer & dolly and
> pound the weld bead- I did that on some reconstructive work on the fender
> splash panel, and it looks fine.
>
> Also see the FAQ I wrote (URL below) for some info on welders. There is
> another sheetmetal FAQ that Bryce Mack maintains, but I don't have the URL
> for that one offhand.
>
> -Malcolm
> * There is a FAQ for this list! Its new home is:
> http://www.islandnet.com/~walker05/triumph/trfaq.htm
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