Hi,
Hmmmm, a topic near and dear to me. ;-)
>From cheap to expensive, you would have the following options (assuming a
stock-ish TR6 motor)...
1. rebuild your Strombergs. The leaky dashpot is a simple fix and a .10
cent gasket. If you're really anal, you could send them to various places
like Apple Hydraulics or TRF for a "proper rebuild". This will cost
significantly more, like in the $400 range.
2. replace the ZS carbies with SU HS6's. The advantage here is more
adjustment. The drawback is you still (probably) have to rebuild them. So
figure $150 or $200 to get a set and then $400 to rebuild them. Note: these
bolt right on.
3. Weber DGV's... figure $900 plus you'll probably find some other stuff
wrong while you're in there ;-), so figure another $200 or so. Then you'll
probably have to re-jet - SAVE TIME AND MONEY AND HAVE A PRO DO THIS.
Really. Figure another $200 - $300. So figure $1500 or more.
4. Triple Z/S or SU's - with the R Good manifold. Costs probably about the
same as the DGV's, maybe a little less. Haven't seen any real dyno numbers
on this setup, but it should be okay.
5. Weber DCOE 40's... oooooh, aaahhhh... BIG $$$. The $1900 purchase cost
is just the tip of the iceberg. Figure another $500 _MIN_ to tune 'em up.
Figure the costs in to re-jet ala the DGV's except instead of two thingies
you have to buy six... so figure roughly 3X the cost of the DGV install.
Don't listen to the folks that tell you DCOE's are too much carb. They are
WRONG. They'll work just fine on a stock engine.
BUT
You didn't say how you intend to use the car!
If you're just driving around town, I'd opt for one or two, with a leaning
towards two just 'cause I like to tinker. I will point out that K. Kastner
and Co. was able to coax over 160 HP out of a TR6 motor with the ZS
carbs... how much power you lookin' to make??
If you want to race, then choice five is obvious, because with the DCOE's,
you get almost infinite adjustability. In fact, you'll loose sleep over all
the possible combinations.
But, if you want the oooh/ahh factor, you just can't beat DCOE's. They
"look fast". The main problem that I've seen with them is that if you tune
'em to make civilised low-end power, they'll most like stink at the top end
and visa-versa. If you find a crafty Weber guy and play around, you can
make 'em idle "really bad" but they'll go like stink, especially when you
really start crankin' the motor.
Last word about the Weber DCOE's - don't even think about trying to dial
them in unless everything is _perfect_ in your motor. Otherwise, you'll be
chasing your tail trying to dial 'em in.
On the DGV's, I say - NO THANKS. Just look at the way they get plumbed in
with the toilet-bowl trap manifold converter. Yuckeroo. A lot of folks love
them and have good success with them, but I'd save my money and make the
Strombergs work.
If you want more opinions on this topic feel free to drop me a line.
Oh, want to save some money and buy used DCOE's??? They show up from
time-to-time, but don't let the seller fool you by telling you that they're
all set up. If that's true - why are they selling them??? You can save
_some_ money buying used, but if you do this, make sure you know exactly
what you are getting. Don't ask me how I know this.
Your's in WeberZ,
rml
=====================================================================
Bob Lang | TR 6 Guy | Editor: New England Triumphs
Phone: | 617-253-7438 (days)| 781-438-2568 (eves)
Occupation: | ComputerZ | TR fixer-Upper
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